Having the snare edges redone properly doesnt do any harm,

If the wrap is orig,..no extra holes...?

That's a nice kit..Go see it, play it for a good 20mins...

If u like the sound/feel...do what comes next..!

So I pulled the trigger on the kit! Boy did it look beautiful. Thanks to everyone's very valuable input. I was able to thoroughly inspect everything, and it was all up to spec with some very small exceptions. As was previously noted, one of the tom mounts was not original, and I have a question about the 12" tom. I've attached pictures, but the washers and screws used do not match the rest of the kit. The washers are larger and the screws extend ****her into the kit. I've attached pictures of this and the other interiors, and am wondering if this is still accurate/appropriate to this vintage?

I'm also curious about the shells. I have some Cleveland Holiday drums which feel significantly heavier, more heft. The shells and re-rings are visibly thicker. I'm wondering what the differences are between those Cleveland shells with flat gray and these (presumably 1968) Dayton Holiday shells, and what accounts for the lighter, thinner drums? Also curious if there's any rule to where the interior stamps should be?

Oops, here are the pics!

I don't see anything out of order in those three pictures. In 1968, you did see some longer bolts for the hardware. All the screws of that speckled grey era were slotted hex-head and the washers look original to me. From time to time you see black washers in 1968. Not sure what that was about, but periodically things like that appeared and were presumably used because they were trying to meet production quotas and used what was available if the silver colored galvanized ones were out of stock. The lugs might have been slightly lighter in 1968, but for the most part the drums should be about the same weight as a Cleveland era drum. Scale a few of them to check. Interior stamps are normally placed opposite the vent holes, but it is not a hard and fast rule.

Pics look good,..

The paper tags are inside to cover up the lil nails that are used to hold the scripted Rogers badge on..

Maybe take a lug off and see if the lugs are lighter and missing the spring & felts (that are inside the Cleveland kits)

Thanks again for the info. That's what I thought regarding the paper tags, but all the nails are exposed/uncovered by the tags in these shells. Is this something to be concerned about?

And I think I will check out the lugs tomorrow and spend some more time with the kit.

Pics...

Usually when u look into the vent hole...the paper tag is in plain view.

Do you have 1 scripted Rogers per Tom or 2..?

Here are some pics of the interior of the 12" tom. And while the tags aren't covering the nails from the script logo, they are opposite the vent holes just like you said. Everything looks very clean and appropriate form what I can tell. Thank you again for all of the guidance and input, I really enjoy learning more about these beautiful drums.

I'll also take your advice on removing a lug to check out it.

They look great. That was a really, really good buy in my view. The color doesn't show up often and the plus is getting a matching snare. Set alone was worth the price. I've seen very few that have a label over the script nails. That was not the norm in my experience. Label across from vent hole is right on the money. Everything about that kit looks as it should with proper layout of mount, script and tone control on both ride toms. Of course, I'm prejudiced because 1968 is my favorite year for Rogers drums. ;)

Yeah! I am beyond thrilled. And very grateful to the incredibly knowledgeable users on this forum for helping me make sure everything is proper. But everything is looking and sounding great. Even came with original heads on the toms, which still smelled like glue when I opened them up. And yeah, the stamps don't cover the logo nails in my Cleveland kit either.