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Working on Bearing Edges- 60's Ludwig & Slingerland

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Hi all!

New to the forums here, although I'm a long time casual reader of vintagedrumforum and drumforum. Basically I'm trying to gather as much information as possible on correct technique for redoing bearing edges on late-60's Ludwig and Slingerland kits before I attempt to do this. (Don't worry: I will NOT be touching these until I've had adequate practice on some cheaper drums...)

Any drummer friend who I bring this topic up to usually says, "Oh, just ship it to a professional." I get that… but being a decent woodworker with plenty of tools, and a reasonably astute guy, I'd prefer to learn how to do it myself.

All that being said- Anyone have any suggestions on how to achieve a good roundover? Just looking for any additional tips of dealing with the nuances of drums from this era, rerings, etc. I fully understand the risks inherent in experimenting with this type of work and plan to test my technique on a few cheap drums first, then a spare "nice" tom which is the second 12 x 8 that came with my 60s Slingerland kit (who plays two of the same sized toms?!). Two of my interests are woodworking and drumming, so it makes a whole lot of sense to me to merge the two... It'd be nice to end up with some good results!

Down to the process itself:

It sounds like I would probably be leaving the inner bevel alone for the most part. I noticed JR Frondelli says he does not really touch the inner cut, as this just serves as a take-off point, and messing with rerings is risky because of possible destabilization (this makes sense to me). Anyone else have thoughts on this?

In essence, it seems the approach I will use is:

1) After addressing any obvious defects (with the plies, rering separation, etc), take the drum to the sanding table for leveling. (SIDE NOTE: Does anyone suggest a particular grit of sandpaper for this process? Or have any particular recommendations for a surface plate? I wonder if something like this is adequate or, on the other hand, excessive: https://www.grizzly.com/products/24-x-24-x-3-Granite-Surface-Plate-No-Ledge/G9656

2) After the sanding table and checking for level, cut the roundovers with a 1/8" roundover bit. (Just double checking, but we are ONLY cutting the outside edge here, correct?).

3) ??? - At this point, once the roundover is cut, I am a little less clear... It sounds like a combination of sanding table, check level, mill smooth file, sanding table, check level, some hand sanding...probably, I would assume, a lot of careful examination with a bevel gauge and careful inspection by eye to ensure things are uniform around the entire circumference of the shell.

I understand there are probably many approaches to acheiving a good result with this work, and that I have chosen but one. I just want to ensure this is a reasonable approach to start with. I am basically trying to acheive the sound that was originally intended for these drums When they were made. I love that warm, punchy 60's sound, just the right amount of sustain... All suggestions/feedback are welcome. Looking foward to getting to work, Thanks all! :)

Posted on 9 years ago
#1
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You sound like you have a well though out plan. I hope someone with experience re-cutting bearing edges answers because I will be trying this in the near future.

From what I've read, 1/8" roundover is correct for the outside cut; and as long the cut isn't very deep I doubt that the inside would need cutting. I plan to lightly sand the inside edge and cut the outer. Good luck.

Posted on 9 years ago
#2
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1/8" round-over is fine, just make sure the cut/bearing edge lands centered on an inside ply and not in-between plies. Study an existing edge with a magnifier. I like to finish edges with 00-00 (double-O) Steel wool and butchers wax. Heads won't hang up on the edges if you rub in a little wax.

And you don't need a 250lb. stone to level edges on a drum. Most counter-tops are pretty flat/level, just stick four pieces of 100/120 grit paper in a big square. Mark the edge with a crayon so you can see where the low spots are as you sand by simple visual inspection.

Welcome to the forum!

John

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 9 years ago
#3
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I would suggest after getting the drums flat and in round toss some heads on and see what you think. May not need to go through the drama of a bearing edge re-cut.

Creighton

Nothing special here but I like them.
Posted on 9 years ago
#4
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This is relevant to me, I've decided to take the plunge for a full recut and am sending mine off to Gary noonan ( in UK) on Monday, he said he would probably cut the snare beds as well.

I love the jazz era
Posted on 9 years ago
#5
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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From Olddrumgeek

This is relevant to me, I've decided to take the plunge for a full recut and am sending mine off to Gary noonan ( in UK) on Monday, he said he would probably cut the snare beds as well.

Wow no kidding! Are you sticking to the original profile round over?

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 9 years ago
#6
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Well yes I stated that to him on the phone, he hasn't seen it yet though. I don't know, it does make me nervous. I heard he's got a very good reputation though, knowlagable and experienced. I don't like the idea of having to send it either.

I love the jazz era
Posted on 9 years ago
#7
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I've had my other one a 40 s 51/2 Krupa in with a local guy, it was already quite flat and in round, he's just basically cleaned and waxed the inside shell- maybe just took a small peak of the edge but not much else. I will be leaving it well alone. He had it quite cranked up when I got it back sounds good but it's looses a bit of the tone when tight. Trying to tune it down though makes it sound a bit sloppy ( snare responce) and still does the overtone thing. Also put new American vintages top and bottom. It is what it is

I love the jazz era
Posted on 9 years ago
#8
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1/8" round-over is fine, just make sure the cut/bearing edge lands centered on an inside ply and not in-between plies.

Thanks, John! I think I'd read this somewhere else as well - definitely a helpful reminder. I can see this taking some careful attention to detail; the magnifying glass is a great idea.

Any tips on ensuring the profile of the outside cut ends centered on the inner ply of a 3-ply shell? Or is it basically just trial and error with adjusting the router bit height? Perhaps getting another junky practice shell on craigslist isn't a bad idea...

As mentioned, I think I'm going to leave the inner edge alone for the most part, maybe a little touch-up by hand. Does that seem reasonable to you guys?

Thanks again. Great to be on the forum!:)

Posted on 9 years ago
#9
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> on ensuring the profile of the outside cut ends centered on the inner ply of a 3-ply shell?

Good ruler (measure -very- carefully) and a good table fence will do the trick. "Measure twice, cut once." Practice on a throw-away shell first. If you decide not to cut, just follow the existing profile with a fine rasp, or sand paper. Finish as I recommended above with 00-00 (double-O) steel wool and butchers wax.

Lots of really good wood workers here, if you get stuck, securing assistance shouldn't be a problem. :D

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 9 years ago
#10
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