JC Penney by Pearl. Nice wrap!!! That price is pushing it, especially consideriung the hoops are in only decent condition, not really super clean. I am kind of in the mind that these snares should never sell for more than 60 in perfect condition, and mind, I have a few MIJ snares. I love them, but in my quest, keeping the prices reasonable is a top priority for me. They just don't merit 100+ for these when you can still buy complete kits for 50-150, even today it happens all day long.

I wouldn't buy that. It's not a Star snare drum, but a knock-off from someone else (Pearl, as jonnistix stated). Rembering a shortly ended US-ebay auction, a Star snare in gold sparkle came up to approx. US-$ 50. Not more.

Concerning the sound of those snare drums I must say that I have experience only with the heavy metal shells, which always sound better than any wood shell - to my ears.

Ralf

I see. I agree the snares shouldnt go for much but some actual Pearl wood snares with funky wraps will bring $100.00 in "nice" shape with good snares and heads.. Problem is when they need snares,and both heads, it doesnt make sense to spend more than $20.00 on the snare if its in fairly good or better shape.

Anyone have any experience with the different types of wood shells on the Japanese stencil kits and which they found to be the best shell and able to get a decent sound of them.

I have a very thin mahogany shelled MIJ Pearl snare and it has some great sounds. It is very finnicky however, and must be properly set up but when I get it all lined up with the stars, it goes really fat down low and rather round and open at the higher tunings.

I agree these drums do take a good ear and skillful tuning and fine tuning to reach their best spot. I know say the snares wont sound like a Ludwig Supra.

I grabbed a Japanese blue sparkle wrapped shell today and twisted it like i would a cymbal to feel how thin it is and the reinforcement ring seperated where it is butted up against the other end at the seam and at the same time the rering seperated from the shell about 1inch in one spot. No joke. I could reglue it but i wont bother to. These are the shells im talking about that are garbage and can never sound good. Some you can tell by looking at them that they are wacked out of round. I have one shell that looks like the guy cutting the rerings was toasted drunk. It is actually funny looking it is so bad. i will post a photo of that later. Not to knock on these Japanese drums because i do like a certain few shell structures and the wrap is so cool looking but all this hardware on every different named badge or sticker throws me off. I dont know why someone does not document what shell,throwoff,lugs,hoops,muffler was used on which ones or would they just be chasing their tail because they used everything on anything. One of my main playing kits is a 4-piece Vintage Japanese stencil kit and with new heads both sides on every drum and with fine tuning to test its tuning range, i got it to sound very good and actually good enough to take to a gig.

right! ahem...... I have many thoughts on this subject myself so I have prepared a short Powerpoint presentation to clarify- so let`s beginFYI

No, really- this is a huge and important subject - let us all agree on this simple guiding rule-[FONT="Garamond"] "ALL LUAN SHELLS ARE NOT CREATED EQUAL"[/FONT]

I know Ralf would add that Star is a name for quality

I add that real PEARL brand shells (atleast from 69-75) represent a signifigantly better luan shell than standard Pearl MIJ stencils.

I do believe that Pearl reserved the better A quality shells for it`s name brand drums and used cheaper, B level shells for many of it`s stencils.

For luan snares - the thinner the shell, the thinner the heads you need (both batter and reso- like a Dimplomat) and the lighter gauge snappys. Also, I cut a slightly deeper snare bed on the thinner shells. The result is a fine, sensitive luan drum.

The same logic applies to the thicker, heavier luan shells without rings. a shallower snare bed and they can play a thicker head (like an Amby or Emperor if necessary).

The 1969 and up Pearl brand snares where the thicker ply luan with no-rerings. I have to agree that that design is my favorite.

Sounds like my red one. It was like that. I worked the edges with sandpaper, reglued the rings, and slapped new (used) heads on it. That is the one that sounds so good. I would like to see both of those. The blue one might be something I am interested in if you would let it go to a rescue kit for the cost of shipping...just an offer as I have another student in need coming from a referral from a teacher. I need a tom and snare, they don't need to be anything special because I will hand lay glitter on them, and wrap is not important. Lugs and hoops are, as well as a throw.

Thanks for the info fellows. Jonnistick-I will send you a PM.