Tim,
As you probably know, I've done several of these. And I've got two in process right now (one for VDF member SlingerLynn, and one that's actually an "Auditorium" model repro -- a 12x15 cut down to a 6.5x15). I may not have all the right answers, but this is what's worked for me...
When you cut the shell, do you use a table saw?
Yes. Be advised, however, it's NOT real safe as you have to remove the blade guard leaving the blade completely exposed.
If so, which part of the shell do you place against the fence?
Does the discarded part of the shell go between the fence and blade or the 5.5" part?
I've done it both ways, but have decided it best to put the "saved" part of the shell (the snare side, leaving the snare beds intact) up next to the fence. It ALL has to be done carefully and slowly, but that is even more important the closer to the end of the cut you come. Without the guard, and when you get to the end, the "disgarded" part really gets kinda "flimsy." I've had it kinda jump off me right at the end, so keeping the saved part up against the fence gives it a little more stability. (I hope that made sense to more than just me!)
When you drill the bottom holes, do you use a template?
No. I've thought about it, but haven't tried to build one yet. I just mark the shell at the left-over holes with line from top edge to bottom edge, using a simple square as a guide. Then measure up from the bottom edge to the center of the new bottom hole.
Do you drill a smaller pilot hole?
Yes. I've just found that works best.
Do you use a drill press (outside to inside) or hand drill (inside to outside)?
Neither. I just use a hand-held cordless drill and always drill outside to inside. Any splintering (which even with sharp drill bits, there is always some) will be covered by the washers. Drill slow, and let the drill do the work: that cuts down on splintering as opposed to getting in a hurry and forcing the drill through.
If you use a router to cut the new top bearing edge, what is the angle of the bit?
90 degrees (straight up and down). I've used a router table, but actually have ended up just using a laminate trimmer-type hand-held router with a 1/4" round-over bit for the outer edge. On 3-ply with rings drums, the reused reinforcement ring has the correct inside angle already. When it is properly reinstalled you already have what you need on the inside. On 6-ply shells (which I've only done two so far), I've "cheated:" I'm good friends with our HS wood-shop teacher and he's put the 30 degree inside taper with a router-table at the school, then I've finished the outside edge with my laminate router as mentioned earlier.
I've also cheated on cleaning up the reinforcement ring. After literally chiseling off what's stuck to it, Coach Renfro (the shop teacher) cleans what won't come off for me with a belt sander at school. I'm pretty fortunate because he understands what I'm doing and is very careful and thorough in cleaning it down to the bare maple.
The shell I have looks like a rounded bearing edge, at least what bearing edge is actually present. :) What bearing edge did Jazzfests have from the factory?
The Jazz Festival model was made with the 3-ply with rings shells, so the outer edge was just rounded over.
Here's a thought ... Ludwig was known to use every extra part available when assembling drums. Since the Jazzfest is also known to vary in depth from 5" to 5.5", could they have pulled a bunch of surplus or extra 14x10 bowtie lug marching snare/toms that were already drilled and cut them down to become Jazzfest snares that had a depth of 5.5"?
It's hard telling. Could be...
I hope I've helped. Good luck with the project!
Bill