Tim,

As you probably know, I've done several of these. And I've got two in process right now (one for VDF member SlingerLynn, and one that's actually an "Auditorium" model repro -- a 12x15 cut down to a 6.5x15). I may not have all the right answers, but this is what's worked for me...

When you cut the shell, do you use a table saw?

Yes. Be advised, however, it's NOT real safe as you have to remove the blade guard leaving the blade completely exposed.

If so, which part of the shell do you place against the fence?

Does the discarded part of the shell go between the fence and blade or the 5.5" part?

I've done it both ways, but have decided it best to put the "saved" part of the shell (the snare side, leaving the snare beds intact) up next to the fence. It ALL has to be done carefully and slowly, but that is even more important the closer to the end of the cut you come. Without the guard, and when you get to the end, the "disgarded" part really gets kinda "flimsy." I've had it kinda jump off me right at the end, so keeping the saved part up against the fence gives it a little more stability. (I hope that made sense to more than just me!)

When you drill the bottom holes, do you use a template?

No. I've thought about it, but haven't tried to build one yet. I just mark the shell at the left-over holes with line from top edge to bottom edge, using a simple square as a guide. Then measure up from the bottom edge to the center of the new bottom hole.

Do you drill a smaller pilot hole?

Yes. I've just found that works best.

Do you use a drill press (outside to inside) or hand drill (inside to outside)?

Neither. I just use a hand-held cordless drill and always drill outside to inside. Any splintering (which even with sharp drill bits, there is always some) will be covered by the washers. Drill slow, and let the drill do the work: that cuts down on splintering as opposed to getting in a hurry and forcing the drill through.

If you use a router to cut the new top bearing edge, what is the angle of the bit?

90 degrees (straight up and down). I've used a router table, but actually have ended up just using a laminate trimmer-type hand-held router with a 1/4" round-over bit for the outer edge. On 3-ply with rings drums, the reused reinforcement ring has the correct inside angle already. When it is properly reinstalled you already have what you need on the inside. On 6-ply shells (which I've only done two so far), I've "cheated:" I'm good friends with our HS wood-shop teacher and he's put the 30 degree inside taper with a router-table at the school, then I've finished the outside edge with my laminate router as mentioned earlier.

I've also cheated on cleaning up the reinforcement ring. After literally chiseling off what's stuck to it, Coach Renfro (the shop teacher) cleans what won't come off for me with a belt sander at school. I'm pretty fortunate because he understands what I'm doing and is very careful and thorough in cleaning it down to the bare maple.

The shell I have looks like a rounded bearing edge, at least what bearing edge is actually present. :) What bearing edge did Jazzfests have from the factory?

The Jazz Festival model was made with the 3-ply with rings shells, so the outer edge was just rounded over.

Here's a thought ... Ludwig was known to use every extra part available when assembling drums. Since the Jazzfest is also known to vary in depth from 5" to 5.5", could they have pulled a bunch of surplus or extra 14x10 bowtie lug marching snare/toms that were already drilled and cut them down to become Jazzfest snares that had a depth of 5.5"?

It's hard telling. Could be...

I hope I've helped. Good luck with the project!

Bill

Nice job detailing the procedure Mr. Bill!

I would only add that; to prevent blow-out on the inside of the shell when you're drilling holes, I use either a block of wood up against the inside of the shell, or a scrap of wood shell that I saved for the purpose. I clamp the shell scrap inside the drum behind the location I'll be drilling, and I never get any blow-out. Nice clean holes every time. Just takes a little more prep before drilling, but worth the extra effort to get a clean result.

John

If I may add, I use a larger piece of plywood or mdf attached to my table saw fence so the drum shell has a larger surface to ride upon, then I just roll the shell up against it. Keep your blade as low as it can go also. Good advice from everyone.

Thanks, Bill, John and lucky. This information is really helpful and it will make me feel more comfortable once I start altering the shell.

I soaked all of the hardware today and need to polish it up next. The hardware condition is not the best, due to scratches and some rust, but the intent from the begining was to be just a nice Jazzfest reproduction player's snare.

I posted some pictures on the other thread about Ludwig serial numbers:

http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?p=234965#post234965

-Tim

Stopping blow out with a piece of scrap wood clamped on is the best way to go. A middle ground would be to use SEVERAL smaller bits working with as many different bits as you have to slowly (diameter-wise) grow to your final diameter. I haven't worked on drums before with tools, but I am a woodworker as a hobby.

I used the steam method to remove the re-ring. It probably took a little longer, but it came out without any damage to the ring or the shell. Once I got the glue softened and the putty knife started, I used a hammer to knock the putty knife around the shell. Every couple of inches I had to use the steamer to soften up the glue.

Here are some pictures during and after.

-Tim

Ok, I've got the bottom lug holes drilled and measured out my shell cut. The finished shell is actually going to be about 5-5/8".

Have you kept the re-ring, as is and just glue, tap it into place and clamp it or do you cut the re-ring to make it easier to install?

Do you user regular wood glue or something like Gorilla Glue (small amounts) to install the re-ring?

Since the inside of the shell already has a light coat of clear applied, I'm going to lightly sand and put another coat(s) of clear to protect and brighten it up.

Thanks again for all of your help.

-Tim

Tim, Im watching this. All I can add is that do not use gorilla glue, why?, because I hate the stuff, lol.

I would not cut the ring, it should fit. Sand the ring and the inside of the drum shell with some 120 or so to make a nice clean joint. Then get about 25 2" c clamps and glue it in using either plain ole white or yellow carpenters glue like tightbond 1 or 2. Or, use Tightbonds liquid hide glue, thats what I did with my Slingy snare. If you need more detail just ask.

Jeff C

Bingo.

Do NOT cut the re-ring. One of mine that I've done the re-ring had already come apart and was loose from the shell. I THOUGHT this was going to make it easier, and quite frankly it ended up being a headache.

I have just used the yellow carpenter's glue. I think mine is just the Lowe's brand name. That's where I got it, anyway.

And Jeff, I don't know if I've used 25 2" C-clamps, but I do use a bunch of them! And yes, light sanding may be necessary to fit, but most of the time mine have just pretty much tapped into place. I'm always ready with a bowl of water and a sponge, ready to wipe up any excess glue that runs out inside the shell.

I do always try to line the seam in the re-ring up pretty much right above the seam in the bottom re-ring; which pretty much matches up with the joint in the 3-ply shell as well anyway.

Bill