I recently picked up a slingerland kit from a pawn shop for a great price. It needs some work...bearing edges have some scrapes and dents - no major gashes but definitely not smooth. Attached are some pics. Seems half the people I talk to recommend completely recutting the edges (all the edges that need done are reso) or using some wood filler and smoothing it all out. What do you guys think? I dont really want to put the money into getting the edges but I like honoring the "integrity" of the original edges, but I also want them to sound good. Thoughts?
Slignerland Bearing Edge Question
Do the wood filler and touch up first and hear how they sound. If your not happy then have the edges cut by someone you trust.
Can we see more pics of the kit just for fun please.
Thank you!
Jeff C
"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Do the wood filler and touch up first and hear how they sound. If your not happy then have the edges cut by someone you trust.Can we see more pics of the kit just for fun please.
Yep. I'll try and get them all set-up here in the next couple days. The faded black sparkle "rootbeer" I guess is what they call it is absolutely gorgeous. I need some parts - all the drums are missing the reso hoops and heads. It should clean up and ply really nicely though.
Thank you, me and about a thousand other guys will appreciate the pics, sounds like a real looker. Try vintagedrumbug or blairndrums for those parts.
Thank you!
Jeff C
"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
After you smooth them out a bit, run a white candle around those edges, rub it down with a cloth, the wax fills all the small stuff well and tuning is smother. No pressure, just run it around lightly and let the wood pick up the wax.
.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Go over the wood with some 150 or 220 sandpaper first, just to smooth it out.
If there are any large nicks, you can use filler, my favorite is stick epoxy, suck as Kwik Wood
After it's all reasonably smooth and sanded, the white candle is great; I prefer a puck of beeswax.
Understanding the principles of what you are doing is good. The most important thing for a bearing edge is for the very edge, the part that the head breaks across, to be coplanar, that is, if you were to lay it on a granite slab, no rocking, no light shining out. Unevenness there is what leads to tuning problems, odd resonances or lack of them, etc.
After that, the profile (sharp or rounded, narrow or wider) influences sustain and tone.
Congratulations on the drums! I love my Slingerlands.
-Erik
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Early '70's Slingerland New Rock #50 in blue agate (20-16-13-12)
Late '50's WFL Swingster/Barrett Deems in black/gold Duco
'70's Slingerland Gene Krupa Sound King COB
early '70's Ludwig Acrolite
'80's Ludwig Rocker II 6 1/2" snare
Rogers Supreme Big "R" hi hat
Here are some pics of them all "restored." Still some work to do on the hoops, but overall I'm happy
Cool kit! I bet the bass sounds like thunder...
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Well done, sir. Beautiful drums.
What did you wind up doing with the bearing edges?
-Erik
______
Early '70's Slingerland New Rock #50 in blue agate (20-16-13-12)
Late '50's WFL Swingster/Barrett Deems in black/gold Duco
'70's Slingerland Gene Krupa Sound King COB
early '70's Ludwig Acrolite
'80's Ludwig Rocker II 6 1/2" snare
Rogers Supreme Big "R" hi hat
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