Only Admins can see this message.
Data Transition still in progress. Some functionality may be limited until the process is complete.
Processing Attachment, Gallery - 145.30271%

Should I shellac my luan shells?

Loading...

The title says it all. Years ago I coated shellac inside the luan snare from my 1968 Pearl, but should I do the same with the 16" & 13" now? Will it improve the sound or it's not worth doing this?

Any experience with this?

Posted on 2 years ago
#1
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
Loading...

Well, I know Neil’s Tama kit had all the shells coated with fiberglass resin. I would imagine it would brighten the sound and raise the pitch a bit.

But, I think recutting the bearing edges would be better money spent, as long as the person/shop doing it knows what they’re doing.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 2 years ago
#2
Posts: 5295 Threads: 226
Loading...

The shellac will help in projection of sound...The luan is very porous, so, sealing it with shellac will help prevent the wood from absorbing the sound...

Cheers

1976 Ludwig Mach 4 Thermogloss 26-18-14-14sn
1978 Ludwig Stainless 22-22-18-16-14-13-12 c/w 6-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-22-24 concert toms
1975 Sonor Phonic Centennials Metallic Pewter 22-16-13-12-14sn (D506)
1971 Ludwig Classic Bowling Ball OBP 22-16-14-13
1960's Stewart Peacock Pearl 20-16-12-14sn
1980`s Ludwig Coliseum Piano Black 8x14 snare
1973 Rogers Superten 5x14 & 6.5x14 COS snares
1970`s John Grey Capri Aquamarine Sparkle 5x14 snare
1941 Ludwig & Ludwig Super 8x14 snare
Posted on 2 years ago
#3
Posts: 1244 Threads: 204
Loading...

I’ve used a few coats tung oil to luan shells with success. It’s a longer process but worth it. Natural and also helps waterproof it. You can google tung oil for info.

As far as sound, not sure I can detect a difference with my ears.

Posted on 2 years ago
#4
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
Loading...

I wouldn’t expect much change with tung oil. It is extremely thin and closely follows the pores in the wood.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 2 years ago
#5
Loading...

I would recommend Polyurethane if you are looking to brighten the sound. It's much harder than shelac.

Posted on 2 years ago
#6
Loading...

The bearing edges were recut a few years ago, totally worth it, but the guy had to do it by hand as the wood was too soft for a router. About coating the inside, if the change in sound is so subtle, I won't waste time doing this. Will probably remove the top emperor and replace with ambassador, because right now, it sound dead as hell...

Posted on 2 years ago
#7
Loading...

Haymans had the white "vibrasonic" coating which was no more than a white polyurethane.

I think Poly would make them louder and more lively but how much, I couldn't say. A layer of woven fiberglass with a thin layer of resin applied neatly to the inside would probably make them sound really lively. I believe the wood in the Pearl Wood/Fiberglass shells was luaan but they used a chopped fiberglass mat instead of woven fabric.

Posted on 2 years ago
#8
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
Loading...

Odd he couldn't cut the edges via router. I used (still have) an old DeWalt variable speed router and different species do require different speeds and feeds for best results. Also the direction of the cut can matter as well.

I had a lot of trouble with figured sugar maple. The "tiger stripes" would pull out if the cut was too deep or the blades were not just a bit sharper than razors.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 2 years ago
#9
Loading...

I laquer the interiors of cheap woods like poplar and basswood with polyeurathane all the time. It makes an enormous difference, much more than recutting bearing edges alone (which I also do). I tried it on Luan shells once, frankly did not like the effect. Yes it made them project more and brigher, but that destroyed that natrual dark warm tone that luan is known for. It is a weird wood, can sound great or can sound terrible depending on a number of factors. If you are looking to brighten the tone, they I guess it would do what you want, but in my opinion it would be a shame. Whatever you do, stay away from tung oil on luan. It's taken the shells decades to dry out and increase resonance. Tung oil will destroy that effect. Great on maple, terrible on luan.

Georgia Phil Custom Drumworks
https://www.GeorgiaPhil.com

Drum Wrap, Drum Heads, Drum Accessories
https://www.StuffForDrummers.com
Posted on 2 years ago
#10
  • Share
  • Report
Action Another action Something else here