There are so many variables that make up a drum's total sound:

[LIST]

[*]type of wood used for the shell

[*]age of wood used for the shell

[*]number of plys

[*]re-enforcement rings

[*]bearing edges (45 degree/roundover/damaged)

[*]shells in round or out of round

[*]head collar fit on the shell

[*]type of hoops (cast/steel/wood)

[*]hoops in round or out of round

[*]number of lugs

[*]depth of shell

[*]interior of shell natural or coated (clear or painted)

[*]head selection (single ply/double ply/clear/coated/calf skin)

[*]head tension (top vs. bottom)

[*]even head tension

[*]double headed tom vs. single headed tom

[*]type of sticks used

[*]players style

[*]humidity

[/LIST]

Starting with a drum shell that is in round with relatively true bearing edges is key. After this, I feel it's possible to make any drum sound really good. The majority of the other variables can also be controlled by you. Also remember, what you hear while sitting behind the kit and playing is not the same sound someone else hears in front or from a distance. That unmutted bass drum "boing" from the resonant head that can drive you crazy while playing is not necessarily what the audience is hearing. Especially when other instruments are added to the mix.

Experiment and spend some time getting to know your drums before altering or giving up and passing them along.

-Tim

Tim,

Thanks for taking the time to post. Great info.

Does natural/coated or painted interiors make a huge difference or just another factor to sort?

Creighton

No problem. Natural/coated or painted is another variable. Buddy Rich ordered some of his snare shell interiors with multiple coats of clear.

-Tim

My experience with refinishing/tweaking edges on a 50's Gretsch shellpack - 20/12/14/5.5x14:

My drums were bought new in the late 50's and I'm the second owner. The edges were not altered by the former owner. The edges on each drum are different from one another. There were a few nicks here and there so I took them to a well known drum builder and he said he would 'touch up the edges." He did that ....by carefully keeping to the original intensions of each edge. When he was through he commented that it was one of the more difficult jobs he had done - he did it all by hand of course.

Now....the question of possible devaluation vintage-wise because of the work done on the edges:

I had my drums appraised by Rob Cook.

He wrote in his appraisal that the edge work - done by the well known and skilled drum builder - did not affect the vintage value of the drums. His reasoning was that the edges were "carefully kept to the original intensions" and were insignificantly altered.

So I'd say if you're worried about possible devaluation of your drums because you want the edges redone maybe consider taking them to a master drum builder and have them 'tweaked' but not altered from the original edges.