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Rogers Rods

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Calling out to some of the Rogers experts. My experience has been that the smaller toms - 8x12 and 9x13 were equipped with a tension rod that was threaded nearly its entire length and also shorter than floor tom rods that were threaded about 1/2 to 2/3rds their length (rough guess). In addition, if FT rods were used on a small tom, you'd run the risk of that longer rod being driven into the tension casing of the smaller toms and possibly damaging them.

Anyone have a definitive view on the correct rods for the smaller toms, and whether or not Rogers did use a shorter but only partially threaded rod on those drums at any juncture? I'm looking at a drum right now that appears to have the FT rods on a 9x13.

Thanks for any input.

Posted on 3 years ago
#1
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The answer may be difficult to pin down due to various time periods where procedures and suppliers may have changed as well as ownership as with CBS's involvement.

And when we add in changes to the drums over the years performed by their owners, it can be difficult to know what is correct. The key is the drums that were barely used and stayed with their original owners for decades. I just saw a post today about a 70's Slingerland kit that fits that criteria where the owner bought them new, tapped on them a bit and then packed them away. Those sets are almost priceless when found. Jollity Farm had a Red glitter Rogers set like that many years ago, but it was the parents who bought it for their child but after hearing them, packed away the drums.

MY interests since the mid-60's have been both drums and Ford Mustangs, and my involvement with related forums such as VDF has swung both ways according to my current level of interest. Until recently, I was heavy into the Mustang forums and little with drums. I sold what I am considering to be my last Mustang a few years ago so I started to re-enter the world of drums as a pass time. I believe I am starting to notice similarities in the two hobby's interests of both drums and cars when it comes to originality.

Just with Dan's topic and question on the configuration of tension rods as was supplied on the drums when new, the same questions surfaced on the Mustangs. If I am correct in that there was only one factory manufacturing each brand of drum, it would simplify the process of determining what was done during certain time periods. With the cars, there were extra variables besides the typical, such as multiple manufacturing plants that acted as independent units that did their own parts requisitions and building techniques where developed separately from line experience in addition to engineering design changes. With multiple plants, the variables increase practically exponentially, even the work shifts ( 1st, 2nd, 3rd, P.T. & W.E.) and the workers themselves caused cars not to be the same.

When the cars were new, I didn't concern myself with what was factory original. But with ensuing years when restorations became necessary, the pursuit of originality became utmost especially for the purists. I was fortunate that the 1968 Mustang I sold a few years ago was almost all original with 11,000 miles on it, whereby the tires and battery were the main parts that were not. Since it remained untouched, the factory processes were blaringly evident, even to the extent that the differences in line a worker's 'touch' was detectable. For example, there is a difference between the left and right rocker panels in the manner which they were painted since there would have been a worker on both sides of the car working independently at different stages of the build.

Sorry for the rambling and off topic wandering, a bit of reminiscing and a touch of regret mixed in there too.

Posted on 3 years ago
#2
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I've never had a Mustang, but I do have one of the engines (marinized of course). I may need you to stop by and help me get it running. Yes Sir

I think the originality thing cuts across all the "collectable" stuff.

My interest is mostly whether or not the rods could end up damaging (or already did damage) the tension casings due to the length. Kind of like using stroker rods with a standard crank. Well, maybe not quite as bad.

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Posted on 3 years ago
#3
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You are correct on issues cutting across the hobby of collecting things.

On the longer tension rods damaging the casing, I found one damaged casing among the drums/parts that I recently purchased that was from a too long rod. In my case, the bass drum ended up being a modified FT that had all the typical mods done to it to create the BD and hence what was original takes a keen eye along with the knowledge as well. That 'drum' purchase was to acquire one snare drum, but had to buy all the drum items equipment as well as two amps, two guitars and an 8 channel mini disc recorder. The owner did not want to part out anything, so now I'm gradually selling what I don't want or need.

So that is your water craft engine, what size?

Posted on 3 years ago
#4
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Typical '67 Ford 289 ci. Marinized by Eaton.

One reason I know about rods being too long is a bad experience using them. Learned the hard way.

Posted on 3 years ago
#5
Posts: 1461 Threads: 87
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Here are original rods from an XP8 13" tom and 16" floor tom.

Posted on 3 years ago
#6
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That difference in length is what I would be expecting. I went ahead and bought this drum to allow for a 20, 13, 16 setup with other drums I have from the same fg era. Picture attached. It looks to be a very good match. A major cleanup will be needed and I'm hoping it will clean up. I'm a bit more concerned the rods could have already created a problem with the tension casings. The seller did provide enough discount to allow for replacement rods.

I think he (she?) is more into machine tool sales than instruments, so the back and forth had limitations. Seems to be a big eBay seller and just uses what is seen elsewhere on the Bay to set a price and then holds to it. It would have been impractical to get into the details on the casings so I bit the bullet and am hoping for the best.

I'll get to it next spring if all goes according to current planning.

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Posted on 3 years ago
#7
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