Does anyone know where I can find info on identifying my rogers drums (age, hardware ect.)? All I can find on the drums is serial numbers. Its a holiday series, with a badge on the bass drums that says "Limited". any help??
Rogers identification
I'm not a Rogers expert, but I do know enough to get by. The lugs and t-rods can help you date the drums. More info would be helpful for identification. Do you have the bread and butter or the beavertail lugs? What do the t-rods on the bass drum look like? What is the finish of the drums? Do the drums have badges or just the script logo?
I am sorry I dont have details about the set but I really dont know which lugs I have or what T's I have or hardware, ect. do you know of any places online where I can see pics of the lugs for instance? I would posts pics but really dont have anywhere to upload them to.
check out ebay. there should be lots of pictures of Rogers kits, parts, lugs on there.
Hi Adam,
I might be able to help you out here. Some ideas: If the lugs look sort of boxy and flat with a slight ridge down the center, they are the older lugs referred to as B&B. These were used til right around 1963. They were notorious for cracking because they were poorly made. The later version is a die cast lug that has ridges on it and a "tail", hence the name "beavertail" lugs. These were used from around 1963 onward. Inside the drums there should be a label indicating the town the set was made in. Cleveland runs up until right around 1965. Dayton goes from about 65-67, then Fullerton after that. This will give you a rough idea. Of course the Fullerton era goes a long way from the late 60s through into the 80s. Also, if the hardware is swivomatic style it would be 1960-@1972. If it is Memriloc that would be 1972 or later. The swivomatic hardware used a ball-in-socket design for the tom holders and cymbal tilters which is an easy way to spot it. Memriloc was a tubular type of hardware and the first type to use "locks" to keep the settings of the toms and cymbal arms constant. There is a ton of information in Rob Cook's Rogers book. Grab it. It is well worth the money.
Steve
Thats great info.. from what you tell me I have beavertail lugs, swivomatic hardware. My set was all made in Dayton, except for one of the floor toms thats fullerton, I guess that probably isnt part of the original set. I will try to get some pics but the coverings are pretty bad, This is the set that I learned to play on when I was probably 6 or 7 years old (I am 34 now) So I am kinda sentimental to them. They were in my bros. attic for the past 4 years and I think the heat did a number on the coverings.
Hi Adam,
Just because the FT is Fullerton and the other drums are Dayton doesn't mean the set didn't come all together. When production shifted from one place to another they didn't throw away the old paper tags and replace them with the new ones, so it isn't unusual to sometimes see a kit that has a mixture like this. As for the covering, if it is faded it would be better not to refinish the drums from a collector's view point. But, if the finish is damaged (cracked, warped, bubbling, whatever), then having the drums rewrapped would make them very attractive and if you keep them for sentimental reasons they'll look as nice as they sound.
Steve
The Band
thanks for the info. the coverings are cracked and scratched so such is life as far as that goes. BTW I have never priced recovering anybody have a ballpark figure on a 7piece set????
I don't do recovering myself, but I do refer people over to folks that do this type of work. If you have someone do the job I would guess that a 7 piece kit is going to cost you $500-$800 depending on the finish you choose, the sizes of the drums, and how much work needs to be done. If you remove the old wrap yourself it will save some time for the person doing the job, and will therefore save you some money. To be honest, figuring on $100/drum is not out of line. Obviosuly the BD will be a lot more than a small tom, but I'm just giving you some guidelines. If you do get the job done please make sure you get a referral to a reputable person. If you are going to spend the money you will want it to be done correctly. If you are in Illinois I can recommend Joe Marquart over at Hit Drum in Aurora, which is about 30 miles west of Chicago. He does great work.
Steve
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