I see no problem's with cleaning that drum up at all..To remove the rust of the part's Dawn soap..

To remove the paint from the rim's Goof Off..

The gold painted finish on the shell is right to me and it should clean up good.I will not repaint the drum at all..

To clean up the inside of the shell again Goof-Off would work the shell could have been a clear shell or a white painted shell on the inside it looks to be white.....Mikey

Okay, thanks everyone for all the suggestions. All of the hardware is taking a Dawn bath, but some of the pieces aren't cleaning up yet. (See pic of the washers from the inside of the shell.) Not sure how to remove that dark oxide.

Mikey, I would have never thought of using Goof-Off for paint. I'll try that tonight. thanks.

I tried the magnet test and both rims are attracted to the magnet. Am I correct in assuming that this means the rims are COS?

I'm confused about the shell depth though. It measures 3-1/2". Is that normal?

I'd also like some advice regarding the shell coating. It looks like it really wants/needs to be recovered due to the small chips coming off. (Not that I want to recover it)

The photo shows the worst side of the shell where there is a large chip missing from the rim area.

Thanks again everyone.

My 3x13 shell is about 3.5" deep as well, and that's at the other end of the decade of production. I don't know how general this is for 3x13 shells but I suspect it is. Bill Maley did a thorough job of documenting how much variability there is in Jazz Festivals, which also seem to range between the nominal 5" and up to 5.5" This was occasioned by those who get real nerdy (as if we can accuse others of being nerdy) about Ringo's Jazz Festivals and their exact height. Anyway, they just seem to be a bit generous sometimes. Sure enough my nominally 5x14 1963 Jazz Festival is more like 5.5" as well.

You asked about how common the Jazz Combos are. There are usually a few vintage ones on eBay each week. Some were around time and time again, unsold because sellers were asking $500 for them. What is uncommon is to find them in certain finishes (like the original galaxy sparkle or burgundy sparkle) or absolutely mint condition.

It is also rare to find those old paint finishes in excellent condition. Mine (which I pictured above) was a paint finish which was completely flaking away and the previous owner took it back to a nice natural maple. If you do that with yours it will most likely not improve the resale value (because it cuts out the "collector" market). So your labor in making it look nicer may not result in any improvement in resale value. So it goes. We all have to live with that, and still do restoration because we enjoy it.

Thanks Jenstat.

I like the sparkles, but it was the satins (ala Slingerland) that really catch my eye. My first kit was given to me by my brother who has used it for about 10 years then gave it to me when I was about 12. I really miss that Lavender satin wave Slingerland set.

So it sounds like we have 1 vote for leaving the finish as is. I would like to protect the finish from further deterioration. Is there a wax finish or something better for this. I haven't seen any recommendations for this situation in other threads.

Maybe whoever buys it will refinish it. I personally can't wait to hear it. I've got new heads for it already.

This is too cool, but the suspense is killing me. Car Driving2

...and yes, I just just want to find (and buy) all the drums and hardware I can find and prevent them from being lost forever.

On the rims yes they are C.O.S. ,As far as the lug screws put them also in Goof-Off to remove the paint,then put them in W.D.40 for about 24 hour's this will help with the oxide,then bluff them with steel wool..

As far as the shell outside i would leave it as-is ..I would not re-paint or re-wrap the shell,you would be taking a 300.00+ drum to a 150.00 drum....Mikey

Good advice Mikey, I'll leave the shell as is. I hope I can find something to protect what's still there.

Everything is cleaning up real nicely too, even the throw-off which had the most rust.

I guess it's just about ready to put back together. I'll post some pics when it's done.

Thanks to everyone for the advice.

I sure wish I could find a throw off like that one!! I have a pre-serial keystone badge 3x13 in blue oyster pearl. I think a photo of it is on this site somewhere... The throw off on mine is a replacement. It's functional but not original. I have the original but it is missing pieces.

That will be a nice drum when you are done with it.

Progress update,

The rims cleaned up pretty well but there is still rust in that sharp groove on the outside of the rims.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]WARNING! Restoration malfunction: [/COLOR]

I was using a cotton buffing bit on my Dremel to shine up some of the tight spots, and everything was going just fine until I one got to one of the tension rod holes and then... POOF! the cotton just exploded causing the metal bit to skip across a small portion of the outer part of the rim causing some shallow circular scratches. AAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRGGGGGGHHHHHH

[There is no emoticon for what I felt]

I might post some pics if I get the nerve.

Another lesson learned, maybe. Should I not have used a Dremel on something as rare as this? It's OK. Give it to me straight. I can take it.

Well, you can always send the hops off to be re-plated if they are that rare, but I imagine Ludwig used these hoops on other drums of the era as well...

(Ludwig experts please chime in!)

J!M, I think that the other drums with this rim configuration are probably all COB (1950's and earlier?). This may well have been the only 3x13 model with COS rims.