Hi, maybe someone out here in Vintage Drum land can help me out. I am eventually going to be resealing the interior of a Slingerland 3-Ply Artist Snare that I own. I have already stripped the older lacquer finish from the inside, I personally thought there was too much on the interior. I am going to to be resealing with a Flat-Satin-Non-Glossy Lacquer finish that I purchased from Drummaker.com, I can't recall the brand name right just now, but it states that it is a Nitrocellulose Lacquer. I am going to go with just one or two thin coats, but I am not sure if I should reseal the Reinforcing Rings/Bearing Edges at all? If I do, would this interfere with the actual contact between the drumheads and the bearing edges/and the drum's tuning/and it's sound as well? Any ideas or advice would be great. Thank for your time. Phil Cormier Fitchburg, Mass 01420
Resealing interior of Slingerland 3-Ply Artist Snare
Phil...
Everything gets a coat/sealed EXCEPT the top of the bearing edges. ( where the heads sit ) You don't want any clear on those. This is very easy to do as I have done many snares/drums over the years.
Brush on as you would normally do being NEAT and taking care to not get any clear on the tops of the bearing edges... THEN ... take a small rag and dip it into some lacquer thinner and go around the tops of the bearing edges. JUST the head contact area. Not so much that you will drip of course. This CLEANS the bearing edges and will remove any clear that may have made it's way on them. Needless to say, this is done immediately after you finish with the clear. Don't worry... even if the clear appears DRY, it isn't cured yet. It will come off.
Tommyp
PS: The Trixon Buddy Rich model 1/440 Standard/Luxus that I redid in this manner blew Jack Lawton away. He said it was BETTER than factory and way neater. Then there were the Slingerland's... then the Montineri's... then... :-)
[FONT="Arial Narrow"][SIZE="3"]Any suggestions on what product I need to do my Ludwig 3-ply interiors Tommy? Any preferences to a certain lacquer thinner and clear?? [/SIZE][/FONT]
DETROIT ROCK CITY
bamboo 72!
Whereas PWindows878 is going to use ACTUAL Nitrocellulose Lacquer, I believe it will be much easier and user friendly for you to use a THIN varient of polyurethane. The LOOK of the two is near identical, and if you don't happen to have any spray equipment or the facility TO spray, the poly will go a lot easier on you!
Nothing wrong with the Nitrocellulose of course!... ( it is as OEM! ) ... but lacquer products generally set up way too quickly, almost demanding that they be sprayed, and not brushed. Brushing on a couple/few SMOOTH coats of ZAR poly is a lot easier to do and control, and well within the reach of anyones talents.
The product I highly recommend is ZAR Polyurethane. The reason is that ZAR poly is an actual BRUSHING poly... meaning that with it's lower viscosity, it flows nicely and levels WITHOUT brushmarks... and ... if you use a poly-brush ( foam ) each coat comes out as smooth as glass. I have redone more than a few snare drums with this product and they look/sound killer. A light sanding in-between coats with say at least 220/300 grit ensures a beautiful finish. ALL sheen levels are available in this line, but the Semi-Gloss seems to "look" the closest to OEM lacquer.
Lacquer Thinner is essentially a "generic" solvent/product. ANY brand will do!
Hope this was of help!
Tommyp
[FONT="Arial Narrow"][SIZE="3"]Awesome! Can't wait to get started. Thanks Tommy. David[/SIZE][/FONT]
DETROIT ROCK CITY
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