Yes, I've done the same and it worked very well. Some of that just needs glue and clamping in addition to the wood filler. I also had success with a sawdust/glue mixture.

thank you for your responce FT, so would i glue and clamp first then do the wood fill or all at the same time?

Just my thoughts Robyn,but the only portion I would clamp,is where you have just ply seperation.You have to fill in the void,where you're missing wood, with either an epoxy or a mix of saw dust and wood glue,or a good wood filler..

The prep works is esential,and removing old gunk,and gluing clean areas,will assure a good long lasting repair.

If you were to clamp the areas where you had to fill in the void,the shell will collapes,squeze out all the filler,and become out of round.I would PM jccabinates and Purdie shuffle for their advise also.Good luck.

Steve B

Thanks steve, i get what you're saying with the clamping, i was kinda thinking the same with collapesing, that why i questioned FTs answer. This is not my drum, just trying to help a friend. Ill give purdie or jeff a hollar for their advise if i need further assistance. Thanks.

If the area where the ply is missing is long and deep enough you can sandwich a few small scraps of veneer and glue them in to help take up the space. Trim to fit nice before you glue and clamp. You can leave it sticking out the bearing edge a bit and cleanup after with a razor blade or sharp chisel. Then fine sandpaper. Yes apply your glue and whatnot before you clamp. Work it into all the areas. Before you start tape off the repair areas inside and out especially under the re ring as glue can drip down through them sometimes. Also a spray bottle with water to lightly spritz the glue helps it wick into the repair areas. I just gave my 60's kit a look at the edge and ring repairs I did 2 years ago. Holding up fine with no issues.

BTW is that a Slingerland shell in the pic? Kinda looks like it.

Thanks, this is also a great idea, never thought of it, but see where it would work.

And yes it is a slingerland, dang you are good, how could you tell by this photo?

robyn -

1. Clean the area of any dirt/dust. Use an old tooth brush and a damp rag.

2. Deal with the voids first. I would use some sawdust mixed with Elmer's, or Carpenters glue and make a paste. Use the flat end of a tooth-pick to fill the little square voids with paste or wood filler.

3. Once the voids are filled and dry, put a little Carpenters glue on a toothpick, or a brush and coat the gap between the plies. Do not use a lot of glue, or over-tighten the clamp. Use just enough pressure to re-adhere the ply. You can cut a 3 inch section out of an old unused bass drum hoop and use it a shim between the clamp and the drum.

4. After everything is nice and dry/cured, you can lightly sand the area to level everything off and follow-up with some 00-00 (Double-O) steel wool and Bee's wax all around the bearing edge.

Done, and done.

John

Agree with the above. Don't use epoxy, it will be harder than the wood and will not sand as evenly. Also, wood glue just works great with wood.

+1.I think one final point is if you don't have a old bass drum hoop lying around,a trip down to the local Lowes or Home Depot or lumber yard,and see if ther are any luan,masonite or PVC or any other very thin plywood scraps,that the'll let you have for free.

Also wrap these pieces in wax paper ,to prevent them from being glued to the shell.Just take your time,and work A-Z,like John outlined.......you'll be just fine.

Steve B