Only Admins can see this message.
Data Transition still in progress. Some functionality may be limited until the process is complete.
Processing Attachment, Gallery - 135.68267%

Removing double sided tape residue on a bare shell-Will not be re-wrapping

Loading...

Greetings,

I know we've had multiple "How do you remove old glue/residue" threads. This one is a bit different. This is a 5.5" x 14" snare drum. I stripped off the wrap and am going to use a natural, clear coat poly finish. It's a cheaper drum, but the outside and inside look fine, plenty of wood grain showing, no large patches or knots in the grain etc.

To make things even more challenging, this particular wrap was held on with double sided tape not only vertically where the wrap "starts" on the shell, but it was also held on horizontally by a strip near EACH bearing edge, all the way around the shell! I got this drum for cheap, but had I known about this, I never would've bought the darn thing! This will make for a lot of extra work, and I will probably invent a few new curse words too!

Because I won't be re-wrapping, I need to be careful how I approach this project. Right now I am using the Nail Polish Remover/Acetone method along with a plastic putty knife. It's working, but it is VERY slow going. I've tried Goof Off in the past and I know that many members here swear by it, but it has honestly never worked that great for me, and I have always preferred Lighter Fluid (on wrap) or Acetone (for everything else). I've also had good luck with "De-Solv-It Contractor's Solvent " (image below), but it can be fairly hard to find. If I can find some, I will pick up some tomorrow. I also have Paint Thinner (the hard stuff) that I will try tomorrow when I can be outside. I know some others have said WD-40 or a spray lubricant works too. I am hesitant to use this method, because lubricants are designed to penetrate, and I think it would leave a residue and soak into the shell and not fully "dry". Again, it will be clear coated, so I don't want it to turn the shell darker or possibly react with the poly.

Also, I've tried sanding off the residue in the past, and it simply won't work. It just gums up the sander (and doesn't really remove the residue anyway). Plus, I can't use a coarse grade of sandpaper, because I don't want the shell to get scratched up. In the past, I've actually had success with putting wood filler on the tape residue area, and then sanding it off. It worked very well, but again, that was with very coarse sandpaper for a shell I was going to be wrapping. Also, it was just in one small area, not all the way around the shell. However, it really did work. I think it's because the residue had bonded with the wood filler and became part of the wood filler, so when I sanded off the wood filler, the residue came right off with it, because they were "one". It didn't gum up the sander at all; it was just like sanding off plain wood filler.

Because the wood filler trick worked so well, I was thinking about doing something similar. What if I roll the shell around in my yard, so that the tape residue picks up dirt and debris from my yard and isn't sticky anymore. I also have some leftover sand from an outdoor project. I could roll the shell on the sand! Would that be crazy, or do you think that might actually make it easier to get off, either with Acetone/De-Solv-It/Paint Thinner or with fine grit sandpaper (220 or above-I'll be sanding the outside of the shell to prep for finishing)? I hesitate to use wood filler, because for one, that would be a LOT of wood filler to use, and also it does "stain" the shell, even where it has been sanded off. In the past, if any wood filler got on the shell even .00001 of an inch outside the tape residue area, it would "stain" the shell a light yellowish-orange. Again, in the past, I didn't care, because the drum was always going to be re-wrapped.

Do you have any suggestions, keeping in mind that :

A) I need to keep the outside of the shell blemish free because it is going to be clear coated (not wrapped) and

B) I do not like Goof Off-it has never met my needs.

Thanks for your help!

V

1 attachments
Posted on 6 years ago
#1
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
Loading...

The only solvent I use on solid wood is acetone. Not nail polish remover as that has other crap added to it. Just the best acetone you can get. Reagent grade preferred. Try an automotive paint store or a Sherwin Williams store. SW no. 9 acetone is reagent grade.

Otherwise use denatured alcohol on ply drums. This is the only thing I used on exotic boards to see what it will look like with a clear coat.

Tough going but if it’s that much trouble, call Keller or Precision Drum and have a new shell cut.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 6 years ago
#2
Loading...

So you have a shell with tape residue in some areas and polyurethane finish in others. I would not roll it in the yard or pour sand on it. You have tried a few things so all I can think of for now is to try the paint remover, if that dont work then I would try some lacquer thinner in a small area to see what it does. If the finish is a polyurethane then the lacquer thinner will have a hard time dissolving it. But you cant assume it is polyurethane, it could be regular wood varnish, oil or water based and if thats the case the lacquer thinner would more than likely remove that type of finish which wouldn't be the end of the world since you are applying a new finish in the end.

Since your going to clear coat the shell you might try to soften the residue with one of the products that you mentioned and use a razor blade to scrape off the residue. Then sand the entire shell with some 320 and then clear coat. Again this is assuming the finish is a polyurethane because that stuff is very hard/tough.

Good luck let us know how it come out (photos).


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 6 years ago
#3
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
Loading...

I use 5F5 on wood to remove anything. It will take anything off wood except a screw or nail.

1 attachments
It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 6 years ago
#4
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
Loading...

I strongly recommend not using a sanding machine. Turning the drum and holding the paper will give that flawless finish. It's round and your paper should conform to the curve.

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 6 years ago
#5
Loading...

Sanding is the easiest way... yes it gums up the paper. You might as well use coarser paper because you have a lot of sanding ahead of you before that shell is anywhere near ready for clearcoat.

http://compactdrums.com/

http://walopus.com/
Posted on 6 years ago
#6
Posts: 5295 Threads: 226
Loading...

How did you make out? What worked for you? I`m curious because I am in the same predicament...

Cheers

1976 Ludwig Mach 4 Thermogloss 26-18-14-14sn
1978 Ludwig Stainless 22-22-18-16-14-13-12 c/w 6-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-22-24 concert toms
1975 Sonor Phonic Centennials Metallic Pewter 22-16-13-12-14sn (D506)
1971 Ludwig Classic Bowling Ball OBP 22-16-14-13
1960's Stewart Peacock Pearl 20-16-12-14sn
1980`s Ludwig Coliseum Piano Black 8x14 snare
1973 Rogers Superten 5x14 & 6.5x14 COS snares
1970`s John Grey Capri Aquamarine Sparkle 5x14 snare
1941 Ludwig & Ludwig Super 8x14 snare
Posted on 6 years ago
#7
  • Share
  • Report
Action Another action Something else here