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Re-wrap Heads

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So I have been spending the past 18 months restoring an old stop sign Gretsch kit. I've been going at a leisurely pace and it is finally nearing completion. I've using a glass glitter delmar wrap. I left a bit of a gap between the edge and the wrap but it doesn't appear to be enough.

I am used to modern kits and there being a bit of space between the head and the shell. The head does fit on the shell but it is very very tight. My question is does this matter or do I need to find a way of reducing the wrap that is close to the edge.

Fingers crossed it doesn't make that much of a difference.

Posted on 8 years ago
#1
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Well ideally the head should spin around freely, as you know. But I wrapped a Slingerland kit once and the snare head was very tight like you described. It has not seemed to be an issue, the drum tunes and plays really nice. You could try some wax on the shell where the heads cover to see if it helps, if you have not already.


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 8 years ago
#2
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That is exactly the answer I was hoping for. It is the first time I've done a re-wrap and I've spent so much time on it I don't want to have to start again!

I've not tried the wax but I will give it ago. I will also try and sand the edge of the wrap down to see if that makes it any easier.

Posted on 8 years ago
#3
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I have now cut away some of the wrap on one of the shells and it hasn't appeared to have made a different. I wonder if the shells may well be oversized.

Posted on 8 years ago
#4
Posts: 6170 Threads: 255
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Maybe try an Aquarian American Vintage head. They are made for this purpose.

Mike

Posted on 8 years ago
#5
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Seems to me that this is an issue, or not, depending on how high you plan to tune the drums - if "jazz high" then it shouldn't be an issue since even if the head is tight you're going to crank it up anyway. Lower tuning for rock or funk is more tricky with tight heads. That's been my experience anyway...

Mitch

Posted on 8 years ago
#6
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Like Mitch said, it doesn't impact much at high tunings. If lower tuning is desired, simply seat the head with the palm of your hand after each adjustment. This compensates for the heads "sticking" while tuning. Takes a bit longer but will do the trick.

http://compactdrums.com/

http://walopus.com/
Posted on 8 years ago
#7
Posts: 195 Threads: 6
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I've got an old set of Slingerlands that were rewrapped and are rather oversized as a result. The American Vintage heads fit a lot easier but they certainly don't spin freely or even drop clean over the shell. Tuning them is a different process to any other drums as normal tuning methods just don't work. I get the head on with my hands as best I can then start working around the hoop with small increments, maybe a half turn, steadily forcing the head into the shell. I aim to tune high initially, with even distances between the lugs and hoop for each tension rod, then I start adjusting for both pitch and tension to get it as even as possible. After that I start detaining in very small increments, maybe 1/8 of a turn, using my hand to 'seat' the head after each lap of the hoop. The collar is so tight on the shell that it doesn't back off completely the way you'd normally expect a from a head so the pressure in the centre of the head keeps the collar and hoop in contact as they should be. It's a funny/frustrating process but I've found I get the best results with it. It's a lot easier to start by tuning the drum high, jazz/bebop range, then gradually bring it back down. I put coated G2s (with the AVs on the bottom) on my RKs yesterday before rehearsal and it did take me a good 30 minutes to get them 'right' but they're now med-low, lots of thump and a nice warm, clean note that has a comfortable level of sustain with a piece of folder gaffer on the top head of both toms.

I am considering trimming the wrap back a bit to see if it makes it all easier and gives me a lower tuning range. I can cut the head collar and that makes it a little easier but it's a slow process with the Dremel and I'd rather not use an angle grinder as I reckon I'd accidentally ruin a few heads before I got it right. This is the thing I REALLY miss about my old '80 superstars, they tuned up so easily every time.

Posted on 8 years ago
#8
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By the way DMorris, nice work cutting glass glitter, never had to do it myself but by all accounts it's a hassle. Did you rig up the dremmel?

Also by the way, yes many Gretsch shells, as far as I know, are over-sized. Someone once told me they are/were made on the outside of a 12 inch cylinder...either way it's another example of why we should all just buy 60s Rogers kits...:)

Hope you get things straightened out. Nice tips on lower tuning, if you can manage to seat the heads.

Mitch

Posted on 8 years ago
#9
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Thank you all so much, that has made me feel a lot better about it. There is nothing more frustrating than finding you've put all this work in and then there is a problem. The tuning tips above are great and I will take my time with it, it certainly has been a labour of love so I don't want to do anything too drastic yet.

DownTownFarmer- the wrap was a pain to use but it wasn't as bad as I though. I used a Stanley Knife to cut it manually, it took a fair few cuts to get through but I got there. This is the first time I've re-wrapped a kit so it was maybe a bit adventurous to go for glass glitter straight away.

Once everything is in place and its tuned up I'll post a few before and after pics.

Thanks!

Posted on 8 years ago
#10
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