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"To Oil or Not To Oil" ? That's the question

Posts: 5550 Threads: 576
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the best is lemon or re finishers oil it is good stuff the liquid gold is a very temporary fix last min shine doe evaporate pretty quick i also like butchers wax a lot rub on buff out great for bearing edges ....

April 2nd 1969 scarfed pink champagne holly wood and 65/66 downbeat snare, and , supra same year very minty kit old pies
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp





once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 9 years ago
#11
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On my 1940/50's Slingerland drums have decided not. The ply layers are so thin worried about what would happen with the oil soaking into the inner layer. They look and sound fine as is. Were not oiled from the factory and no way to remove oil once applied. Like to keep things correct when possible.

Creighton

Nothing special here but I like them.
Posted on 9 years ago
#12
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From jccabinets

And one more public thank you to you for the help you gave me on my Camco kit. You were the most important part of the whole project and I cant thank you enough, it would have never happened if it were not for your generosity!

Jeff - Thank you again - I'm glad I had what you needed and was able to help kickstart your Camco project - it was my pleasure man. Your silver sparkle Camco kit came out just "killer" - the holes in that BD simply vanished into thin air

Posted on 9 years ago
#13
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From longjohn

Agreed... I do a little wood turning and often use teak oil as a base.. The smell soon disappears.. (In my case I then burnish the finish with a hard wax).. I think this kit looks great and would do the same or similar to a dried out shell.. John

John

Thanks - That's been my experience using the lemon oil. I don't consider the smell an issue - it disappears in a few days or so.

Doug

Posted on 9 years ago
#14
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From bartw

In addition to my post on "best snare drum ever made" I'd like to say that I think it would be really nice if scientists would do tests. I guess A/B comparisons could be made. Bare shell, tune, strike, record sound waves. Then oil the shell, tune in the same fashion, strike, record soundwaves. Then compare soundwaves. Statistically calculate if differences found are real or due to coincidence.

Thank you - That would be a great test to try to quantify any differences before and after oil treating the shell. I know from my work with the structural engineers that each drum shell has a basic natural resonate frequency based on it's size and mass (weight). Oiling the shell may tend to dampen the vibration somewhat and maybe shift the resonate frequency but I would guess that the changes would be too small to be noticeable to the average listener.

I don't know details but know that DW is now designating pitches for at least some of their shells. They must have some kind of set up in the factory where they can "tap" the shell and measure it's resonate frequency. Therefore a shell with a resonate frequency of 440hertz (cycles per second) would be designated a "A" pitch drum shell.

Doug

Posted on 9 years ago
#15
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From Creighton

On my 1940/50's Slingerland drums have decided not. The ply layers are so thin worried about what would happen with the oil soaking into the inner layer. They look and sound fine as is. Were not oiled from the factory and no way to remove oil once applied. Like to keep things correct when possible.Creighton

Thank you - Your comment certainly makes sense - "if it ain't broke - don't fix it" I can't argue with that.

Doug

Posted on 9 years ago
#16
Posts: 5550 Threads: 576
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That's all very great a lot of theory's and practicum , but there is also the school of thought that the music grade , old slow growth wood , once the natural oils dry out then it becomes othere worldly in sound something the new farm grown wood cannot produce no matter how hard the big drum company try something to be said about. 60's African music grade wood especially the mahahgany from that era

April 2nd 1969 scarfed pink champagne holly wood and 65/66 downbeat snare, and , supra same year very minty kit old pies
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp





once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 9 years ago
#17
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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I wanna suggest 100% Natural Beeswax, three coats can be done in three days in between playing if you want. It dries as if it was never put on, wont lighten or darken the color. Goes on wet and dries crystal clear and wont chip or crack. Smell is gone when dry.

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 9 years ago
#18
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I use Feed-N-Wax on bearing edges and unfinished interiors.

Mixture of beeswax and orange oil, I believe.

-Erik
______
Early '70's Slingerland New Rock #50 in blue agate (20-16-13-12)
Late '50's WFL Swingster/Barrett Deems in black/gold Duco
'70's Slingerland Gene Krupa Sound King COB
early '70's Ludwig Acrolite
'80's Ludwig Rocker II 6 1/2" snare
Rogers Supreme Big "R" hi hat

Posted on 9 years ago
#19
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From larryz

I wouldn't care for the smell once the oil is applied, that's why I'd never do such a thing.

I would agree with this.

Leave them alone. They wood ages and makes the drum sound! Once the heads are on, it's not exposed to anything other than dry air, or the air in the place they are kept.

I've always lived by "if you'd be comfortable, than your drums are comfortable".

Just my two cents, but leave them alone! DOH

Drum Kits
1965 Ludwig Clubdate Oyster Blue
1966 Ludwig Clubdate Oyster Black
1969 Ludwig BB Blue Oyster Keystone Clubdate
1971 Ludwig BB Black Oyster
Early 60's Camco Oaklawns Champagne Sparkle
Posted on 9 years ago
#20
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