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Question about re-wrapping in WMP

Posts: 1685 Threads: 529

Hello,

Precision recommends sealing the shells when wrapping drums in a light color like WMP. This is from their website:

When recovering Mahogany, previously painted, stained or dyed shells in Antique White, White Pearl, Blue White Pearl, Continental, or Sky Blue Pearl, first apply one coat of sealer/primer to the shells and allow to dry thoroughly. This will prevent dyes and stains from coming through the wrap material. Once the sealer/primer is dry according to manufacturers specifications, proceed with the recovering project as normal.

Does this apply to just bare wood? Would it apply to Luan or "Philippine Mahogany"? Anyone re-wrap with a light color before have any problems like this?

FYI I will be re-wrapping a 70's MIJ shell that is just bare wood. It is the thicker shell with the gray painted interior.

Thanks.

Posted on 9 years ago
#1
Posts: 2023 Threads: 47

I used the Antique White Pearl on an MIJ kit. You can "see through" the wrap; what's underneath matters. If you can seal the bare wood with a white sealer, the wrap will be brighter.

This isn't necessarily what they're talking about, dyes or stains [or mahogany oil] "coming through", but a white sealer covers all the bases.

Mitch

Posted on 9 years ago
#2
Posts: 721 Threads: 30

See the dark spots on a couple of the drums? They will bleed threw on the light colored wrap.

I used a WMP wrap from Precision.

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Joe


“I did not trip and fall. I attacked the floor and I believe I am winning.”
Posted on 9 years ago
#3
Posts: 2023 Threads: 47

From PopsOldSkins

See the dark spots on a couple of the drums? They will bleed threw on the light colored wrap. I used a WMP wrap from Precision.

That there is what I'm talkin about. Is there a particular sealer one should use if planning to use solvent-based contact cement? I much prefer the solvent-based stuff because it always works.

Mitch

Posted on 9 years ago
#4
Posts: 721 Threads: 30

The solvent-based is usually lacquer based. Which will pretty much eat threw anything.

I have the best luck with the 3M water based. You just have to make sure that you scuff both surfaces before contacting together.

Joe


“I did not trip and fall. I attacked the floor and I believe I am winning.”
Posted on 9 years ago
#5
Posts: 2023 Threads: 47

From PopsOldSkins

The solvent-based is usually lacquer based. Which will pretty much eat threw anything.

That was my feeling although the solvent-based cement did not melt or otherwise compromise the Precision wrap. It did melt some old MIJ wrap bits I used to cover some holes though...

Also there is the white sealer to consider - will the solvent cement dissolve it. So I'll go with you and say the water-based is safest, most worry-free. But only on a warm *dry* day :)

Mitch

Posted on 9 years ago
#6
Posts: 721 Threads: 30

But only on a warm *dry* day.

Yep, June is just six months away.:D

Joe


“I did not trip and fall. I attacked the floor and I believe I am winning.”
Posted on 9 years ago
#7
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