Anyone know if these shells actually require a snare bed? If so, would it be crimped? If crimped, how would one do that?

I think some had crimped beds? I have a 70's Sound King and it has no beds in the shell.

FFR,

Thanks man. I was hoping someone would chime in and say that as it was my assumption that this would be the case. I am going to try this without beds and see how it works. Perhaps a Rhythm Tech active snare system as plan B. Worst case scenario is that it will make a nice timbale.

Scott - I saw an old film from the Ludwig company where they showed a worker crimping snare beds on a brass shell by using a large stand-alone machine tool. The machine was big and heavy, not something found in any home shop.

The only thing I can suggest is, draw the bed profile you're going to use onto the shell and then use a comma-dolly to hammer the beds to the drawn template shapes.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/stream-line-wedge-comma-dolly-211-p-12269.aspx?gclid=CKPHl9a-urkCFc-Y4AodsDkA1A

Sounds like an interesting/fun project. BTW, judging from the color-tone and patina on that shell, it looks to be copper! If so, it'll make an awesome sounding snare drum.

John

Your welcome. That's a very cool shell. Please update us as you move along with it too please.

It could be red brass which has about 85% copper content if I remember correctly. The yellow brass has less like 60-65% or so. Each has zinc as well for the percent difference 20 for red and 35-40 for the yellow.

If you use extended snare wires you won't need snare beds.

Barry

Thanks for the tip. How would one use a comma-dolly?

By the way, it is quite possible that these shells are copper. Also a lot of thought that these were Sound King shells that never made it to the final stage of chroming. Regardless, I am looking forward to doing something with this shell.

Here is the link for those that have not seen these in the past:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x14-Triple-Groove-Slingerland-Snare-Drum-Shell-Brass-/390655238234?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af4dde05a

the odd thing about snare beds is, that for every one that works properly there is one that doesn't. sometimes changing to a different thickness snare cord , strap or even snare wire brand can rectify a problem that appears to be caused by the beds but sometimes as barryabco pointed out , through wires, with a fixed mount rarely need one nor sometimes do suspended wires.

the wire ends are flat and parallel, the cords are parallel, yet most beds are curved???what kind of sense does that make? the bed should actually be completely flat and parallel to the bearing edge and at a precise distance from it. what is the distance? that depends on the throwoff, the cord/strap or mechanical mounting method of the through wires and most importantly for suspended wires; the design of the wire ends and their distance from the bed. even the type of head has a small affect . be very carefull using a coma dolly to conform a snarebed to . getting an off camber curvature or too deep a curvature could make a poor bed and it won't be repairable. you would be better off with a heavy flat bar, laid across the entire drum and pressed down with equal C-clamps, to make two equivalent slight flat depressions, which can be gently deepened if necessary.