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Possibly painting a metal snare-a few procedure a prep questions

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Hello,

I recently got a kit for cheap locally, and as a throw in was a decent quality MIJ metal snare that was actually covered in wrap (yes, a metal snare was wrapped!)

Under the wrap, the snare had been painted a flat gray-ish color (sort of similar to an Acrolite) and had been drawn on with crayon. Yes, crayon. And not by a child either. The artwork was a little too good for that. I attached some photos. As much as I want to think "Grrrr, who would do that?!?!?", another part of me thinks "That was creative".

Anyway, since it was a "freebie", and is completely unoriginal in condition, I'd like to experiment with it. I actually have an "original" snare exactly like this with another MIJ kit and I like it a lot. When I suspend this shell with my finger and tap on it, it has a pleasant metallic "ring" that lasts for a few seconds, so it's a real resonant shell, even with the crayon wax!

1. There is some glue residue from the wrap, although not the typical contact cement residue (visible in Photo 1). It's in random places, almost like a glue gun was used. I thought I could sand it off with a palm sander and some coarse 60 grit paper, but no avail, it won't budge. Should I use a heat gun and try to scrape it off? Obviously, I would need to use the proper precautions, such as using an oven mitt to hold the metal snare and do it outside on pavement for safety.

2. I planned on sanding all the gray paint off. In the little bit that I did (thinking the glue residue would come off too) I noticed a nice kind of copper-ish hue coming through such as in Photo 2 (almost looks like Champagne Sparkle, LOL, and George Costanza would appreciate the "pinkish hue"). If I end up liking that color (and assuming I can get the whole drum to look that way), would a few coats of clear coat be in order, just to protect it from rusting etc? You can see that the actual paint came off pretty easily, but where the glue residue was won't budge!

3. I am also thinking about trying the Rust Oleum "Hammered Copper" finish. Has anyone ever tried this before? It says it's paint and primer in one and can be applied directly over rust, so I'm assuming if go this route, I can apply it directly to the sanded shell? Would I need clear coat over this?

Thanks for your help everyone,

V

3 attachments
Posted on 7 years ago
#1
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Greetings,

Have you considered paint stripper? Perhaps try some on an inconspicuos part of the drum just to check ther is no odd reaction with the metal underneath.

The residue "glue" may be Araldite or some type of epoxy resin?

Posted on 7 years ago
#2
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If it was mine I'd get it sandblasted. Wouldn't think it would cost more than $25.

Posted on 7 years ago
#3
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Rustoleum Hammered is good stuff. Sticks well, covers well. I put it on nice and thick to get the best texture effect.

Then let it cure at least overnight before handling it. Plan your painting job well, with some way to rotate the shell on a piece of wood and then hang it for curing.

Once it's fully cured, it's pretty durable.

Most adhesives, even epoxies, will yield to heat, and it shouldn't damage a steel shell.

-Erik
______
Early '70's Slingerland New Rock #50 in blue agate (20-16-13-12)
Late '50's WFL Swingster/Barrett Deems in black/gold Duco
'70's Slingerland Gene Krupa Sound King COB
early '70's Ludwig Acrolite
'80's Ludwig Rocker II 6 1/2" snare
Rogers Supreme Big "R" hi hat

Posted on 7 years ago
#4
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The "Costanza" pinkish hue is most likely the copper layer of the chroming process.

Most chrome is 3 layers.

Copper is first applied in 1 or more layers.

The copper layer fills tiny voids in surfaces.

Then Nickel. Then Chrome.

If you sand carefully, you can can go down to the copper layer,

and then stop.

If you go too far, you will see the raw steel.

Is the hair "Flowing".

BLAEMIRE DRUMS
Thanks to Mr. Jerry Jenkins
Posted on 7 years ago
#5
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Googone may work on the residue of the glue. A non VOC paint stripper would do a nice Job. I agree with T-Sr. Sand blasting, but I would recommend walnut shell grit. Less abrasive and should not chew through all of the layers as GGD noted. Send some pics once the project is done.

No Guru - I just love collecting & learning about vintage drums!

Some of my favorites from the kits in the collection
58 WFL New Yorker Blue Sparkle
67 Ludwig Hollywood Red Psychedelic
69 Ludwig Standard Red Ruby Strata
70's Ludwig BOP "Ringo" Kit

A few of my favorite snares
20's Leedy Black Elite
51 Leedy & Ludwig Knob Tension
58 WFL Buddy Rich Classic Blue Sparkle
63 Walberg & Auge Sea Blue Agave Green Pearl
66 Leedy Shelly Manne Blue Agate Pearl
Posted on 7 years ago
#6
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1 - A heat gun helps get the adhesive to let go but doesn't really make it scrapable... If sanding doesn't work, a chemical of some sort might be in order...

2 - You can certainly clear right over the pinkish hue

3 - Clearcoat over isn't necessary but would add depth and protect the finish.

http://compactdrums.com/

http://walopus.com/
Posted on 7 years ago
#7
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From green glass drum

Is the hair "Flowing".

Let me ask you this:

If I put my hand in the snare wires, would it be easy to get it out?

Posted on 7 years ago
#8
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Yes, you could get your hand out of the snare wires.

Make sure they are not the "blue rubber coated" defective wires.

BLAEMIRE DRUMS
Thanks to Mr. Jerry Jenkins
Posted on 7 years ago
#9
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