No need to fret. It looks like a job for a good wood filler. Choose a product that dries hard. Fill the crack on either side of the screw -before- removing it! If you remove the screw before filling on either side, there is a chance the crack might run and become larger. The screw is holding everything in-place for now. Use filler on either side without getting any on the screw and washer itself. After it's good and dry, you can pull the screw and finish the repair. Under the re-ring just put some filler on your finger-tip and run it along the gap so it's smooth and flush with the surrounding area. A little light sanding in the repair areas and done.

And... I hope you're not calling the lap-joint a 'crack' in the re-ring. That's just how they are made. I'd repair the crack by the screw with filler/epoxy, then tune her up and let her rip!

Hope this helps...

John

I agree 100% with John.

Also, you may want to consider putting a few light coats of lacquer or polyurethane on the repaired area with the wood filler. That will give it strength and make the wood filler area more "at one" with the rest of the surrounding wood. It's all personal preference though.

You wanna use a good wood filler non pre mixed, put blue painters tape just along the edge of the crack, even on the re-ring too. then mix the wood filler with dark rusty water (I think it`ll blend good with that tone) You can use something else if that mixture don`t blend but you get the idea,(maybe watercolor paints) and then apply it to the crack and let dry. You can do it to the tiger eye cracks around the screws too (if you want). when dry, use a very very fine grit sandpaper or a majic eraser but don`t take the tape off till your done sanding !i

If you don`t use the tape,..the filler will fill in the pulp around the cracks too, and you wont get that out without removeing material. The idea is to maker the cracks look like grain !i

I see two previous attempts without colored mix, I think !i

If you don`t like the drum,..it`s not worth the repair !i

Is it a crack (with missing wood) or a split and lift in the veneer? Crack with missing wood, use filler as the guys suggested. If it's a split and lift, inject glue under the lifts and clamp. This happens with older drums often, it's not a big issue. Comes with the territory.

Remove the lugs first.

Good catch, JR! Hadn't thought of that because he called it a 'crack.' That's one of the great things about this forum, if one guy misses something, another guy will step in and pick up the slack. Always informative. Great crew here.

John

Agree looks like prior attempts at repair on the rings.

Not found of filler on something that wide.

No grain to filler so it never stains right or blends well.

I would hit the local Woodcrafters store for a piece of Mahogany 1/16x3x24.

SKU either 9303 C37X6 or 50W07 $6.89. Way more than you need, but always nice to have spare stuff :-)

Remove screw. Magnifying glass and an Exacto knife. Glue of choice. Bevel cut the existing wood. Match the bevel angle for the wood going in glue, clamp. Sand ,finish. Done

Tedious bizness but looks one hell of a lot better than just filler.

Creighton

Thanks to everyone for all the great advice.

I've just been able to get the top head off and take a closer look inside.

While I initially thought this was just an issue of some ply chipping (and that's true) the bigger issue seems to be that the interior ply is lifting off the exterior (it's a 2 ply drum from what I can tell...Slingerland student model). I realize this is repairable, but I'm thinking all the gluing and clamping may not be worth it for what I paid.

Thank you all again! This is a great place full of a huge wealth of knowledge!