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Old 'clear coat'...can it be removed?

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I am far from being a handyman and have zero experience finishing drums so forgive me if this is a really stupid question.

I have a set of lacquer drums from the 70s that I'd like to restore while keeping the original paint. Is it possible to remove clear coat (or what ever the top coat is called) without damaging the base paint? There is indeed some sort of top coat over the base on these drums. This is an original factory finish by the way.

I've seen some demonstrations on YouTube of wet sanding clear coat off of cars without removing the base paint. I realize this may not apply to drums as they are wood and cars are metal. Just wondering if it's possible.

Thanks

Dan
(red66charger)

Looking for:
- L.A. Camco 12" Stradivarius Tom Tom
Posted on 9 years ago
#1
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I would think the wet-sanding would work on the drum as the process never reaches the substrate - metal or wood it don't matter, you're only going as far "down" as the paint.

Mitch

Posted on 9 years ago
#2
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OK, first of all. In automotive they don't remove clearcoats from basecoats. What they do is sand the clearcoat to prep it for another coat of clear or base coat. It is impossible to completely remove clear without damaging the base. What exactly are you trying to do or what exactly are you trying to achieve? I used to work at a high dollar restoration shop and still continue to do classic/custom car stuff. I can probably walk you through most anything as far as painting goes. As long as you have the equipment. A real quick way to find out if the paint your working with has a clear over a base, or simply a single stage paint is to find a spot that you can sand that isn't too noticable. Use 1500 wet and sand a small spot. If you start sanding and the water your sanding with is milky colored...it is a clear coat you're sanding. However, if you're sanding and you start seeing the color you're working with in the sanding sludge, it is a single stage paint with no clear top coat...

Jason

Posted on 9 years ago
#3
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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Yeah unless it's blistering, I'd scuff it all up and shoot a fresh clear. It would be good to verify what type of clear as used unless you are into cracked and crazed finishes....

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 9 years ago
#4
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Exactly why I don't clear coat anything. In 50 years the thread will re-appear:-)

Creighton

Nothing special here but I like them.
Posted on 9 years ago
#5
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