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My RIMS adventure on a ‘77 Stop-Sign Gretsch (help needed)

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Hello,

I’m new to this great forum, so forgive me if my questions have already been asked (I did a search and couldn’t quite find the answers I need).

I have a late-70s Stop-sign Gretsch kit (a “Studio” model, according to the 77 catalog), and I decided to get rid of the original tom holders - the infamous “nylon-ball-half-buried-in-the-shell” - because I wanted to have the 12" and 13" toms closer together (the original holder does not allow that).

I looked at recent Gretsch catalogs, and really liked the idea of replacing the old tom mounts with Gibraltar/Gretsch RIMS (the GTS suspension system), with Gretsch hinged tom brackets (GS-9025). That way, I’d have an updated version of my kit, with better hardware and no drilling necessary (I know the general feeling in this forum about that Eye Ball).

I went ahead and bought the 12 and 13 RIMS, the tom brackets, and the Gretsch “GTH-DL” double tom holder (mighty fine looking, I must say). Since the tom holder fits right in my bass drum rectangular plate (model 4945, 1 inch diameter), I was anticipating nothing but smooth sailing.

Shoulda known better CryBaby

When I removed the old tom mounts, installed the RIMS (looking good, BTW) and put the toms in the bass drum tom holder – DAMN!!!– I realized that the toms are now way too close to me, because the tom mounting plate is positioned near the bass drum head facing the drummer.

I then checked out the position of the mounting plate in newer Gretsches (Catalinas, for instance) and realized that it is located about for inches from the FRONT of the BD, to allow for the toms to fold back and not protrude over the edge of the bass drum.

(Sorry for this long-winded explanation of something that must be very obvious to most people in the forum :)).

SOOOOOOOOOOOO, once I got over the shock, disappointment, rage and self-loathing, I realized that I’m left with two options: one tried-and-true and one hypothetical (which I’d like your input on):

* Option 1: forget about mounting the toms on the bass drum, and use other means to hold them (cymbal stands, snare stands). I’m not crazy about this option, because I suspect it’s a pain to set up the kit the same way each time, and it takes more space and hardware to accomplish this (more $$$, that I hadn’t anticipated).

* Option 2: the one I’d like to try (NO drilling, don’t fret). MAYBE, if I turn the bass drum around, the tom mounting plate will be in the correct position to hold the two toms (i.e., at the right distance from the front of the BD). I'll then switch the bass drum heads and voila! the front becomes the back and viceversa.

I’ll cross my fingers and try this, but I'll probably run into two problems: 1) the bass drum may not really be designed to attach the pedal to the front hoop (anybody know?) and 2) the bass drum spurs, which would now be located on the back of the bass drum (closer to the drummer). In this scenario, is there a way to secure the front of the bass drum (formerly the back) without having to drill and install the spurs there? For instance, what do people who refuse to drill the bass drum use instead of spurs? Is there an accessory to do this? I guess I could always prop up the bass drum with two bricks, but I suspect it would lose some of its vintage flair :)

Pheeeew, that’s about it... Thanks a lot to those that made it this far! Please let me know if you need extra information before rendering your expert opinion :-D

Thanks a bunch!

Alex

Posted on 11 years ago
#1
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I am a huge RIMS fan. But the problem you have come across is the reason I use them with Gibraltar mounts and arms, from cymbal stands.

As a matter of fact, RIMS came about through the infamous Pearl tubes which were sustain killers. However, the mounts and tom arms are just brilliant with RIMS. As are the Gibraltar. Good luck.

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Posted on 11 years ago
#2
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For your hoop problem if you're going to turn the bassdrum around, keep the batter hoop on the batter side, so you don't have to ruin the front hoop. and as for the spurs you can try the achors that attach on your front hoop, see if that works out. Or you can try to find spurs that mount on your front hoop.

Good luck.

Posted on 11 years ago
#3
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I like RIMS mounts also, though they do take away some of the true, vintage appearance. Are you using light, single braced, (vintage?) hardware, or heavier, double braced stuff? Did a custom job on my 60s Ludwig player's kit, and used 70s, Hercules hardware which is sturdier for mounting the toms with clamps.

The other option is also good, with suggestions made above, particularly if you're hardware is lighter, or you want a more authentic vintage set up. :2Cents:

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Barrhaven Drum Guy
Posted on 11 years ago
#4
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I agree ...flip thé bassdrum around...change skins/hoops...

Leave thé original spurs where they are....& add a smaller dble center spur set that attqches to thé front hoop...!

Bop iT / Til U Drop iT.

ROGER's
1964 Cleveland,.18/14/12 in WMP
1966 Cleveland, 20/14/12 O'natural.
Fullerton,...20/16/13/12 Silver Glass

WFL
1957 B/R Super Classics In WMP

Snares..
Wood & COB Powertones,
Wood & COB Dynasonics,
57 Jazz Festival

Zildjian avedis cymbals.
40s/60s era.
Posted on 11 years ago
#5
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Worth considering a double tom stand. I have never enjoyed the marriage of cymbal and tom stands. A double tom set up is pretty flexible, and is only a modest amount of extra luggage (I lie to myself).

I am thinking about a similar set up with Rims for a set of Fibes, so will be curious how you work things out.

Posted on 11 years ago
#6
Posts: 3467 Threads: 116
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Up until recently I was using the GTH-DL for a 10" & 12" pair of toms as accessories with my Slingo's. I did not use the Gretsch post but used a cymbal stand base directly with the two mounts.. I was able to get them in nice and close over the BD.. No universal clamp was necessary as the mounts fit nicely directly on to the stand base (Pearl 1" dia) .. maybe worth a look.. Plus if it works for you, it looks real neat and tidy.

(while I think of it.. I currently have one of these double mounts up for sale, mint & complete with the short Gretsch post)..

Cheers

Also I forget to say , I was also using the Gretsch style RIMS with this setup..

'77 Slingerland 51N,Super Rock 24,18,14,13.. COW 8,10 Concert toms
'69 Slingerland Hollywood Ace
'75 Rogers Dynasonic 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'77-78 Slingerland 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'78-79 Slingerland 5 1/4 x14 8 lug COB
'79 Biman 5 1/4, Acrolite
'82 Slingerland 5 1/4 x 14. Festival COS
'84 Tama MasterCraft Superstar 6.5 x 14, 10 lug Rosewood
'98 Slingerland (Music YO) 6" 10 Lug Maple.. NOS
Zildjian, Sabian , UFIP & Paiste mix.
Posted on 11 years ago
#7
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Is this an "L" arm set-up? If so, fashion "delete" plates for the toms and mount the L arm receiver to it, eliminating the extra distance caused by the RIMS- The delete plate would cover the ball hole and allow you to mount the L-receiver without drilling.

Posted on 11 years ago
#8
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Wow, thanks a lot for all your answers!

I’ll see my beloved Gretsch tomorrow and try to flip the bass drum around, but I suspect it may not work, because it is a pretty small drum (20x14) and the 13” tom may still protrude too much towards the back. We’ll see.

If that’s the case, I’ll let you know what kind of hardware setup I come up with to hold the toms Keep on Pl

Posted on 11 years ago
#9
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HEY, I THINK IT WORKED!!

I have yet to finish setting up and play, but it's definitely looking good (the toms don’t stick out too much towards the back).

Once I have the whole kit set up I’ll post more pictures.

Thanks again for your help,

Alex

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Posted on 11 years ago
#10
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