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Metallic bronze powder in shellac - finish

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Just tossing this out there since I've never really heard anyone mention this sort of solution.

Recently I visited an art/antique restorer in my city (Budapest) and learned about the idea of dissolving bronze powder in shellac. Having recently picked up a Beverley "fixer upper" for a decent price, I decided to experiment with this "bronze shellac" on these fine birch shelled drums (I chose the pre-international 12" for starters).

Essentially I did this:

1. Stripped the shell of old wrap (horrible non-original stuff)

2. Stripped off the glue (some residue remained) using a paint removal gel available locally.

3. Progressively sanded the shell up to 800.

4. Cleaned the shell with naptha (benzin from the pharmacy).

5. Later, started applying the bronze-shellac solution by brush. Three layers, with 000 steel wool between.

My next step will be to add an outer layer of plain shellac using the "French Polish" method. This should smooth out some of the brush strokes (with the help of some ultra-fine sanding -- 2500 was the recommendation from the lady at the shop). I might even get brave enough to try Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound in the end. We'll see!

Overall I'm hoping to achieve a matt version of the Hayman "Gold Ingot" wrap.

Anyway, all thoughts and comments are welcome. I'll add info here when I can.

More photos here using Microsoft OneDrive: http://1drv.ms/1lfJfzW

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(AKA MatureDrummer & JacksonHold)
Posted on 8 years ago
#1
Posts: 5550 Threads: 576
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That's age old technique it talks practice kits easier to use lacquers and bronzing powders

April 2nd 1969 scarfed pink champagne holly wood and 65/66 downbeat snare, and , supra same year very minty kit old pies
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp





once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 8 years ago
#2
Posts: 545 Threads: 67
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Nice idea.

Looked at close-ups in your one-drive pictures.

I'd like to give you an advice:

Go back to that shop and ask how to make and use "chalk-glue", I only know the word in Dutch, it's "krijtlijm", so "chalk-glue" is word by word translation, I don't know if it's the real name in English.

Anyway, chalkglue is basically this: a whole lot of chalk-powder mixed in a hot glue made from grinded animal bone.

Aply 2 or 3 layers on the bare shell. It will completely fill the woodgrain. When dry, chalkglue is very easy to sand to a perfectly smooth surface. Personally I would not like seeing woodgrain in my fiish the way it shows on your tom

Smoothening surfaces with chalkglue is also a very classic technique.

You could also use spray-putty though....

Or 4 layers of a brand of normal paint primer that is quite filling.....

For inspiration: Here's a special paint Beverly:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/132978292@N04/albums/72157653729082344

Vintage and custom drum projects:
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php...2305272732%3A6
Posted on 8 years ago
#3
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Thanks for the tip, Bartw! I will ask her about that. Their shop is like a little museum restoration workshop... like stepping through a time warp.

I love your Beverley finish. It seems to be the type of finish that is best from a distance? (not that it is not nice up close, too)

Indeed, I know there are easier solutions. But with very little invested in this kit I thought I may as well experiment and learn.

If nothing else, the lady at the shop offered to do some finishing work if I can't make it quite how I want it.

(AKA MatureDrummer & JacksonHold)
Posted on 8 years ago
#4
Posts: 545 Threads: 67
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speaking of cheap..... In the Netherlands we have a home-utensil/tool/food shop that has low quality products for very very very cheap. They sell a alkydresin-based primer paint for only 3,5 euro's for 750 ml. Amazing. Best thing about this paint is (and this is the reason that it's so cheap): it has hight amounts of chalc!!!. I asked a professional decorator about the qulatity of it,he sais it's more than good enough for in-house paint work. I've been using several cans of it for my custom drum-jobs. It's works more or less like chalc-glue, but way cheaper and way easyer to use.

1 attachments
Vintage and custom drum projects:
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php...2305272732%3A6
Posted on 8 years ago
#5
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Bart, sorry t oreport but I chose not to fill in the grain on the drums as you suggested. Imperfections in the wood come through, but I've managed to get a pretty decent antiqued look. It reminds me of the gold you might see on a black and gold DUCO shell.

Anyway, shaping up pretty nicely. I can't say this is a process I would recommend, but at least I have had some fun learning. Eventually I will write a full blog post on my gear blog.

The attached shot almost captures the drum's current look. That said, it is MUCH nicer in person. Some finishes do not photograph particularly well (for example, my Oyster Sonor S-Classix look much better in person than real life).

I will visit the lady at the Art Restoration shop ASAP for further tips on how to bring the project to a close.

Higher res photo on MS OneDrive: http://1drv.ms/1QForP2

1 attachments
(AKA MatureDrummer & JacksonHold)
Posted on 8 years ago
#6
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The first finished drum. 20x14 early 70s Beverley kick. African Mahogany, 10 lug, extra holes at former spur location.

The final layer is Talens Acrylic Varnish spray #114 (a Dutch product).

The hoop is a Sonor hoop that I happened to already have. I got lucky and it matches quite well. But I only have one! The other hoops is Sonor, but with green inlay. For now it works.

Next up: Reassemble the toms. I'm taking it one weekend at a time.

(AKA MatureDrummer & JacksonHold)
Posted on 8 years ago
#7
Posts: 545 Threads: 67
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Nice! Personally I think I would have smoothened the shells, but I also understand your referral to the antique duco-finishes. And in Dutch we say: there's no arguing about taste...

If you happen to have some bronze-paint left...

You could buy two strips of veneer (mahogony) and finish them just like you finished the shell, then use them as inlays. Looking at your pictures it seems like the hoops are more or less the same look, except for the inlays.

please keep updated

Vintage and custom drum projects:
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php...2305272732%3A6
Posted on 8 years ago
#8
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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For anyone interested, I can get metal powders for projects like this.

Aluminum Bronze is one of them. Not cheap however...

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 8 years ago
#9
Posts: 5550 Threads: 576
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Here is the basic mix any powders in alcohol first hen add to shellac but be careful as if laps up quick but the plus it reactive ,I personally would mix in lacquer base but that's just me

April 2nd 1969 scarfed pink champagne holly wood and 65/66 downbeat snare, and , supra same year very minty kit old pies
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp





once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 8 years ago
#10
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