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Ludwig Pioneer. Water damage

Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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From Remi

The washer picture was more to show how bad the rust was. The humidity was trapped inside and before I tried removing any of the hardware, I wanted to ask for advise to make sure I wasn't going to get in a situation where the head of the bolt would break off and it would be a nightmare to fix it (none of that happened. Once again this is my first "attempt" at a drum restoration and I thought maybe someone who would have had trouble with a breaking bolt head would have looked at the photo and told me "try this instead of a more obvious method to remove the hardware". But all of the hardware is now off the drum and i'm starting to clean the inside paint.

That`s good thinking and a great approach.

You`re at the right site, their are plenty here that have done many resto`s.

New washers and screws were suggested. That`s good advise, the old one`s will rust again and ruin the resto. If you go clear inside, the rust will go in the grain.

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 7 years ago
#21
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From OddBall

That`s good thinking and a great approach. You`re at the right site, their are plenty here that have done many resto`s. New washers and screws were suggested. That`s good advise, the old one`s will rust again and ruin the resto. If you go clear inside, the rust will go in the grain.

Thanks, and I look forward to learning a bunch of tips and tricks, and maybe one day i'll be able to be the one helping! But for now: watch and learn.

Patience is a virtue, right?

Sorry in advance if I flood you guys with a lot of stupid questions. I try searching the forum for previous threads before asking anything, just to make sure it hasn't been asked many times before.

Posted on 7 years ago
#22
Posts: 6170 Threads: 255
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From OddBall

I`m seeing electrolysis taking place. The non ferrous metal is coming into contact with steel/Iron. I don`t know which metals are which, but it`s tell tale signs are there.(Brass badge steel grommet for instance) After you clean all the hardware, you will see missing pieces of plating. Those will quickly rust up again in a few months. The best way to delay that for a long time is to use liquid car wax and polish a bit. Unless you re-plate, you will need to re wax every now and again.

Wouldn't the grommet be brass on this one originally?

Posted on 7 years ago
#23
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Remi

I did a post on a variety of methods for cleaning up the wrap. I am still going to try the Oxy-Clean peroxide method but so far, for me, the lacquer thinner and Soft scrub seemed to work the best to remove yellowing. I just did one that looks just like yours and 2-applications worked great (be careful as the mixture is highly flammable and really stinks up the house with the solvent smell, this drum cost me a nice dinner out for my wife because of the smell)

After that Novus 2 with a buffer then carnuba wax to shine it up.

I have recently found that the vinegar soak then a scrub down with aluminum foil works great on the lugs and tension rods. I don't recommend it for the springs, screws and washers, I use Mothers chrome cleaner and polish. After that I always use carnuba wax. Like our gurus say, I agree, replace your screws and washers, they are pretty roached out. Nick Hopkins web site sells them pretty reasonably.

Looking forward to seeing your post of the progress.

No Guru - I just love collecting & learning about vintage drums!

Some of my favorites from the kits in the collection
58 WFL New Yorker Blue Sparkle
67 Ludwig Hollywood Red Psychedelic
69 Ludwig Standard Red Ruby Strata
70's Ludwig BOP "Ringo" Kit

A few of my favorite snares
20's Leedy Black Elite
51 Leedy & Ludwig Knob Tension
58 WFL Buddy Rich Classic Blue Sparkle
63 Walberg & Auge Sea Blue Agave Green Pearl
66 Leedy Shelly Manne Blue Agate Pearl
Posted on 7 years ago
#24
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