Generally speaking, you need the application of a heat source to rearrange the molecular structure of a metal alloy. With that said, I don't recommend anyone sticking their cymbal into a fire. Other than applying heat, I don't believe you can accomplish this with any degree of permanence without damaging the cymbal. That's just the physics of metal and the limitations of metallurgy.

Hey Carl,

You're stuck with what you have. The bad news is that you can't really do anything (of which I'm aware) to fix the warping that won't drastically alter the characteristics of the cymbals. And let's face it, those characteristics are why you bought these plates in the first place.

If playing them as a pair of crash cymbals is your focus, then I would recommend rotating them against each other and find the spot where they meet together the most. Sometimes they won't line up well, but at least you can get an idea of which crashes are easiest to execute consistently.

Make sure you mark a small line or dot on each plate with a pencil or marker where they line up the best. That way you can just pick them up, line the marks up and play, and not have to worry about the first crash or two being clunkers.

I hope this helps,

Branson

Hi

I saw this thread and decided to jump in so you don't ruin your cymbals. The LAST thing you should do is apply heat. Heat makes the bronze lose its temper making it brittle and easy to crack.

The only way to un-warp them is to hammer them to correct the shape, but I would not recommend you try this on your own. There are certain independent cymbalsmiths who could do this for you, like Mike Skiba, Craig Lauritsen, or Matt Bettis. Mike is in New Jersey and Matt is in So. California. Craig is in australia. If these cymbals are really old and rare they might have reservations about altering them, but it wouldn't hurt to shoot them an email and see what they say. All of them are members on the cymbalholic forum, which has recently been opened up to new members. Join up and shoot them a PM.

Cheers,

Mike

Here's a thread from awhile back that wasn't begun on the subject of re-working cymbals, but addresses the idea on post 8 of the thread......

I've played plenty of non-flat crash cymbals before, and know how to orient them for a good sound. I got both of these cymbals to try to use paired with a 14" cymbal that is flat for very soft crashes and BD/attached cymbal parts. I'm convinced that its impossible for me to get the sound I want with one flat cymbal and one uneven cymbal.

I'm not about to put my cymbals in an oven or hammer them; I was wondering if people have done anything less extreme with positive results.

So does anyone have a 15" heavy K they want to sell me? ;)

You're welcome anyway.

Peace

:)

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Seriously...not to be attempted by a novice. As Kevin directed you to.... Some cymbal makers (Matt Bettis in LA, Mike Skiba somewhere in the south) can actually do that, but they are artisans, and they have furnaces and lathes and hammers and anvils and all of that Hephaestean stuff electricit ...they seriously know how to rework cymbals.

Indeed, heating re-tempers the cymbal, rearranges the molecules, does all sortsa craaaaaaaaaazy sh#t to the metal.....you don't wanna go there all by yourself.

A layman will only likely ruin one. Since the pies are on the heavy side, I'd suggest contacting matt bettis and asking him if he thinks he could make something of 'em...there is some metal there which can be removed, so perhaps....

http://www.rarevintagecymbals.com/[/COLOR]

I've contacted Matt before about redoing a warped cymbal and he made it clear that he does not work on damaged cymbals.

I've tried to straighten a warped ride cymbal before but even with my whole 230 lbs standing on it, nothing happened. I blocked it up with wood first in such a way as to put the force opposite to the warp. No dice. Now I just play it....sounds great.