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Fibes Snare Quesion(s) Last viewed: 2 seconds ago

Posts: 1345 Threads: 175

Question for Fibes SFT-690 owners. I recently bought a shell with The of Martin Organization Nazareth (square badge) 5.5 x 14 Fiberglass shell. Interior sprayed black. I don't know it this is a factory spray job or not so if anyone can shed some light on that it would be appreciated.

I later both the original hoops and SFT strainer and butt plate that screws to two on the lugs on the snare side.

The butt-plate has 3 settings as I'm sure you Fibes owners are aware of. I'm just having a problem setting up the wires. In order for the snares to make full contact across the entire surface of the snare side head I have to set the butt end on the highest of the 3 settings. If it's set in the middle of the 3 holes the wires will not touch the head on that side of the drum. With the wires set on the highest position there is contact there, but when I release the strainer the wires do not disengage from the head. As it's not a parallel strainer the wires disengage at an angle as they are being held in a stationary position at the butt-end and there is always contact with the wires and the snare side head at the butt end. Is there any way I can set up the drum so that I can fully disengage the wires.

Any help appreciated. I don't know how this fiberglass shell sounds with the wires disengaged because they are constantly touching the head at the butt-end.

Thanks in advance.

Posted on 9 years ago
#1
Posts: 1345 Threads: 175

Now I know one of you Fibes guys has the answer for me. Little help?

Posted on 9 years ago
#2
Posts: 2010 Threads: 19

I have a chrome one and the interior is painted black. I also have a clear one. My chrome one is missing the butt and throw (has a P-85) but my clear one is complete. I couldn't get the SFT throw off to function properly until I got a set of the proper Fibes snares. I couldn't get generic snares to work right. Sounds like you might be in the same boat.

Posted on 9 years ago
#3
Posts: 525 Threads: 37

What I do is use small rubber washers under the set screws to let me do the fine adjustments to the snares.

The butt end does not have to be snug against that head at the end either.

I use them on the throwoff side too.

How do they sound with the snares disengaged?

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHubUWXwn7E"]FIBES - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVPnhmT_2ro"]Fibes snare 5x13 Birds Eye Maple Burl - YouTube[/ame]

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Posted on 9 years ago
#4
Posts: 525 Threads: 37

From K.O.

I have a chrome one and the interior is painted black. I also have a clear one. My chrome one is missing the butt and throw (has a P-85) but my clear one is complete. I couldn't get the SFT throw off to function properly until I got a set of the proper Fibes snares. I couldn't get generic snares to work right. Sounds like you might be in the same boat.

I use the same snares from a Pearl free floater that uses the extended throwoff.

No issues.

I'm about to try some Grover extended wires for the two snares you see posted if they ever get them shipped.

Oh yeah,I've got 6 snares with the SFT 690.

Posted on 9 years ago
#5
Posts: 1345 Threads: 175

From pgm554

What I do is use small rubber washers under the set screws to let me do the fine adjustments to the snares.The butt end does not have to be snug against that head at the end either.I use them on the throwoff side too.How do they sound with the snares disengaged?

Thanks for the tips. Wires are original and in great condition. The wires don't fully disengage even with the tension knob backed off all the way and the lever in the down position. The problem is the butt-end where the wires are in a stationery position, constantly making contact with the snare-side head even when strainer is disengaged. I had considered places washers where the butt-plate connects to the lugs to lower the butt plate by the thickness of a washer. That extra 2mm might help. It's a funny system in that the wires cover the entire surface of the head, yet it's not a parallel strainer so the wires at the butt -end are never going to drop off they're just stuck there touching the head. I think I should loosen the screw on the side of the butt plate so the rectangular bar where the snare attaches to will act as a hinge to allow the snares to drop off at an angle. I'll try a few thing. Thanks.

Posted on 9 years ago
#6
Posts: 525 Threads: 37

If you look at my pic,there are washers underneath the snare end plate that raise the snares just enough so that when disengaged ,they do not touch the edge of the shell.

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Posted on 9 years ago
#7
Posts: 1345 Threads: 175

From pgm554

If you look at my pic,there are washers underneath the snare end plate that raise the snares just enough so that when disengaged ,they do not touch the edge of the shell.

Thanks. I noticed the washers in the photo. I had the snare on a Premier Tri Lock stand which is a bit over engineered for such a simple thing like a snare stand. The stand was the problem all along. When I disengaged the wires they were still touching the head because the stand has a flat plate were the drum was actually resting on unbeknownst to myself. It was pushing the wires against the head. I adjusted this crazy stand to raise the angle of one of the arms that cradle the snare so now the drum works fine. It was working fine all along. Sorry, just had the drum a day and never used that stand before. It was just there so I used it. The wires still could do with a bit of tweaking so I may try your suggestion with the washers. Thanks.

Posted on 9 years ago
#8
Posts: 525 Threads: 37

Some of the newer butt plates have a slot instead pre drilled holes making fine tuning a bit easier.

Posted on 9 years ago
#9
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