I just drilled new holes in the 15" snare to floor tom shell I'm doing. The shell had center mount lugs like most snares do. I put small beavertails on it so I drilled one new hole on lug space center above the exsisting holes. I used blue painters tape on the shell to mark each spot. Used a sharp metal point (awl?) to indent the X mark and started with a small bit in the pilot hole. Then worked up to the final size. I used a T square to get the holes parallel to the shell edges. Some Kentucky windage too. I forget the name of the bits I used but they have the little pointy tip to help guide the bit. Final hole size left a smidge of wiggle room for the lug collar and rat tail file to open slightly if needed. Yes I'd get your bearing edges done firt then do the lug holes. Router and table are the best for this depending on the profile you want. That's uncharted area for me so someone else can take it from there. I'm no woodworker so please excuse me killing the tool names. LOL.

Here's one of the holes markd out on the shell.

Agreed with everything FFR428 said.

Drill from outside with a sacrificial backer(a piece of wood) firmly behind the spot your drilling.

Edges are tricky to do at home. There's a learning curve and you need some specialized equipment.

First, The shell has to be trued on a leveling table and a sanding table.

The you used a perfectly level router table that has no fence and a bit of the appropriate bevel to for your edges.

Finally, the edge has to be hand finished and waxed.

Best left to a professional if you don't really know what you're doing or if you really value the drum.

good luck.

The thread reminds me of one I read a while ago. Maybe a woodworking site? Whatever.

He used the blue tape and a small pilot bit as well, and went all the way through. The he drilled the hole, the size desired, about halfway through. Then, using the same pilot hole, he drilled in from the other side. Nice and clean, no splinters.

Note: I have not tried this method, but it did make sense.

I used to be pretty willing to drill shells for projects...but definitely NOT the kits I have now. Converting a 16" Mapex floor tom to a bass, complete with spurs, is one thing. A Ludwig Champage 67 Downbeat? Not so much!

BTW, that Mapex made a sweet little kit!

My :2Cents: :

The above method as described by bfulton is the method I use for drilling holes. The bit I use is as Glenn (FFR48)described: it's called a speed bit (at least that's what it said on the package!).

Yes, edges are very tricky. I've stayed only with the simple "round-over" on the out-side edge (I'm usually doing cut-downs and re-installing the re-ring on the inside anyway) and have used both a router table and a hand-held router... and yes, hand-sanding-touchup is necessary.

Now, are my edges perfect? Probably not, but most of the time just as good as what was there. But I'm working with stuff that had mostly been discarded or set aside and forgotten about!

Bill

I believe the "pointy" drill bit is called a foristner (sp.) bit. Using an awl is a great idea for aligning the point of of the foristner bit. I don't like making pilot holes because it gives chance to mess up, especially if you have cheap bits that make holes out of round easily. One and done.

Somewhere here is a thread on making a jig for recutting bearing edges. I don't remember who started it. It was quite a while ago but I thought it was a good idea for someone who has a router.

Agreed!!!!

Soap Box...Don't be pokin holes in expensive, rare shells unless you got a damn good reason.

Just to clarify.

The bit with the little pointy part at the tip is called a "brad point" bit.

Forestner bits could certainly be used for this if small enuf but are more like hole saws than true drill bits.