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Drill and Mount or leave alone?

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I have a nice 18x14 ssb bd that I recovered to match my rb kit. I also had (precision) plug some holes that were put in for a ridiculous pearl tom mount that it had.

I really like the tom more centered and am considering putting on a Maxwells replacement rail. What's the best way to figure out the location? Once I do that I need to see where it lines up with the plugs, and then decide if I even want to bother drilling at all.

Thx!

Posted on 5 years ago
#1
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I know what you mean. I don't like putting toms on snare stands, because I can't ever get it close enough to the center of the bass drum, which is what I prefer.

There are alternative rail mounts as well. DW's is actually really good (and surprisingly affordable) and also Gibraltar makes one too.

Another alternative would be to use the Ludwig Atlas Arch mount. You replace two lugs on the bass drum and the rail mount runs off of those two lugs. The replacement lugs have an adjustable hole pattern, so it's once size fits all. On the plus side, you get the rail mount you want with no drilling at all. On the minus side, those replacement lugs are pretty bulky (and can be difficult to fit into a case properly) and it is pretty pricey. You can also use an additional Ludwig Atlas mount that replaces the lug on your tom as well (and as shown in photo 2 below), so you can have a suspension or isolation mount without the (thoroughly modern) look of a typical suspension mount.

Also, for a mere $20, DW offers a claw hook clamp that mounts on the wood hoops of your bass drum. It can mount anywhere that there isn't a lug in the way. Most people use it for cowbells, splash cymbals etc., but you can use it to mount a drum too, as shown in the photo below.

It's up to you. They are your drums. I would least explore the DW Claw Hook/Atlas Arch mount first, just so that drilling is a last resort.

The first two pictures are the Ludwig Atlas Arch, the third is the DW rail, the fourth is the Gibraltar rail and the fifth is the DW Claw Hook/L-Rod combo, shown holding a snare drum.

V

Posted on 5 years ago
#2
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Those are all good options. I've seen two of them before. Thx

I originally settled on the steve maxwell rail because it only required 2 holes like the DW. But I wouldn't have to change the tom mount, which is the gretsch spade mount.

I think I need to figure out the potential location for it and then see if it's far enough from the plugged holes to be strong enough.

Posted on 5 years ago
#3
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Here are some pictures of the Maxwell rail on my 1967 Slingerland kit, with a 14x20 bass drum. For an 18" bass drum, you could even put the rail centered between the top lugs. Does your Gretsch use a diamond mount or 3/8" L arm? You can get either style from Steve.

All the above options are very good. My personal opinion is that they are just too much "metal" for a vintage kit. But, that's just me. I really like the look and functionality of Steve's vintage-style rail consolette. I did swap all the inexpensive bolts, that Steve provides, for chromed bolts. It does get pricey, but I felt it was worth it!

Best of luck with whatever you decide to go with.

-Mark

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Posted on 5 years ago
#4
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Thanks! The tom uses the flat slotted mount.

The other reason I don't want to change mounts on the toms is I basically have 2 full kits that I can interchange and the other bd has a rail mount.

:-)

Posted on 5 years ago
#5
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From wolfereeno

Thanks! The tom uses the flat slotted mount. The other reason I don't want to change mounts on the toms is I basically have 2 full kits that I can interchange and the other bd has a rail mount.:-)

Makes complete sense! Go with the Maxwell rail. The upper section is modeled after the Ludwig part, using the better geared tilter vs the clock-face unit.

-Mark

Posted on 5 years ago
#6
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