I received the book, "Sound Designs: A Handbook of Musical Instrument Building." It describes making the sound chamber by using a radial arm saw with a dado blade.
Instead, I used my table saw with an 8" dado stack set to 1/2" (per the book). I used a chunk of cherry that was left over from another project. It started out about 12" long, 3" wide and about 1 7/8" thick. (The book recommended a 3" by 3" block. Don't have one).
First, I raised the dado all the way up to measure the depth of cut as well as the length of cut. I marked pencil lines on the table saw to denote the beginning and ending of the cut. (Photo 1).
I set the blank about 1/4" from the outside edge of the dado, to give me a 1/4"-thick playing surface (again, per the book). I clamped my fence down, then clamped the blank to the fence over the lowered blade. I then turned on the saw and gradually raised it to make the cut. (Photo 4). The cut ended up being slightly narrower than 1/2", so I nudged the fence over and made a second skim cut to accommodate my 1/2" chisel.
Striking this surface gave me a slightly hollower sound than if the block were left solid, but not much different. I then clamped the block to my workbench and whacked, chiseled and cussed my way to a relatively square, flat opening. The extra length on the block was very helpful to avoid blowing out the sidewalls while leveraging wood out of the opening. I then used a 1/2" Forstner bit to clean up the bottom a bit. Striking this surface gave a more hollow sound than before, but only marginally. The striking surface was still too thick.
I clamped the block flat on my workbench and hand-planed the typical rounded top we are accustomed to seeing on wood blocks. Followed by sanding with a random-orbit sander gave me the near-finished product. These actions served to also remove a lot of wood from the top. The finished thickness is in the 1/8" area, tapering to about 1/16" near the front edge. I don't have calipers that will reach inside to get an accurate measurement.
I ripped a little wood off the back of the block (the side opposite the opening), then crosscut the two ends off. I probably should have left room to drill some mounting holes, but I like to play wood blocks, whenever possible, while they are resting on a padded table.
I will try and post a video of the sound of the new block. It sounds pretty good!
Josh