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Cracked Formula 602 Ride

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1960's Paiste Formula 602 22" Ride (pre-serial) with two cracks in the bell. I have attached a picture showing the damage. Red lines show the cracks.

Should I have two holes professionally drilled at the end of each crack (black circles) or should I not be concerned? Should this cymbal not be "crashed" anymore?

Thanks,

Tim

Posted on 12 years ago
#1
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If it's not buzzing, don't mess with it & use it for a light ride. Drilling holes to stop the cracks in the bell region will only further weaken the bell & eventually lead to the entire bell structure failing. Make sure it is well cushioned when to mount it, do not clamp it tight & just let it swing a little...you can still spank her a little with the shank/shoulder of the stick but don't crash it! If you play jazz this would be a good situation for this cymbal.

Just my 2 cents

Dan

"Play the drum...don't let it play you" - Max Roach

1968, 1974 & 1984 Rogers Dyna•Sonic COB
1971, 1976 Slingerland GK Sound King
1973 Slingerland Festival
1920's-40's Slingerland (US Military) Field Snares (6)
19?- Ludwig Field Snare (US Marines)
1960's Premier Gold Glitter Student Snare kit
1960's-? MIJ Snares (way-way too many)
Posted on 12 years ago
#2
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If you have any mechanical apitude, drilling the ends of the cracks shouldn't be too difficult.

If I may recommend a few things I have learned, Check with a j.ewelers loop before the repair to see as best as possible as to where the crack really ends, then proceed as follows:

1. Use an awl to punch a small dent in the cymbal for the drill bit.

2. I use an 1/8" bit and try to make the outer edge of the hole end a fraction before the crack.

3. Use a slow speed and a little oil on the spot where you are drilling and have a steady surface such as wood underneath the cymbal.

4. After drilling I use a very small round file to smooth it all out.

5. When playing the cymbal after repair, don't use a felt and nut to hold down the cymbal, let it breathe and move freely

Check the area every so often to make sure all cracks are not spreading, or new ones developed.

I have 2 Paiste 602 pre-serial with cracks that have been drilled out, and I play them like every other cymbal.

Good Luck!

Its better to have people think you're an idiot, than to open your mouth and prove them wrong, unless you doubt yourself then speak away....
Posted on 12 years ago
#3
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Great feedback. Should the crack that is sticking up be made flush again?

- Tim

Posted on 12 years ago
#4
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From thornbeck

Great feedback. Should the crack that is sticking up be made flush again?- Tim

I wouldn't worry too much about that Tim. The less you compromise the cymbal other than drilling out the cracks, the better

Gary

Its better to have people think you're an idiot, than to open your mouth and prove them wrong, unless you doubt yourself then speak away....
Posted on 12 years ago
#5
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That's what I was thinking too. I am sure there is some pressure in that lifted crack.

- Tim

Posted on 12 years ago
#6
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Guys sometimes dremel out the crack, so it won't buzz. You might want to do that to the one that's overlapped. Also, if you know anyone with a good grommet set-up, you could grommet the hole. That would really keep the cracks out of play.......marko

Posted on 12 years ago
#7
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I was just going to say use a grommet

Posted on 12 years ago
#8
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I have one (22" 602) with cracks in the bell. I'm just waiting and watching. No change since I've had it. I try to remember the surgeon's creed: "do no harm"

$00.02

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Posted on 12 years ago
#9
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Well, for 15 years ago i would said --no troubles! -- Take it and run to the lazer-weld lab. :)

But today it's not so easy available... :(

George.

Posted on 12 years ago
#10
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