Haven't played the painted ones much. I do like Krylon Indoor/Outdoor White Primer better than the Rust-Oleum. A few light coats works best. Second pic is from the back. On coated heads less trouble to sand off logos. This was acetone on a Evans logo. They use a serious ink.
Next batch to do are really dirty heads. Hope 99 % iso alcohol will get most off then light wet sand.
Creighton
I used to use plain old Comet kitchen cleaner to clean up my coated heads. Used to work great. Of course sometimes the coating would go down the drain after, but Ludwig used to sell an aerosol can called "Ruff-Kote" that would put the coating back for you. Haven't had a can of that in years, but it did work great. Dent removal was easy with a hair dryer on high or a heat gun on low as well. I usually spent the time twice a year to spruce them up. Hardly ever replaced heads back in the day unless they broke through. And this was when heads seemed cheap! With the average cost of heads going up all the time, I sure wish they still had that "Ruff-Kote" available. ;)
Cool. I remember Ruff Kote! I wonder what the secret formula is for the coating the manufacturers use...
Mitch
Warm water and a bit of Ajax or Comet using a brillo pad. Works everytime.
Magic eraser!
Wow, I was thinking about doing this for a reso head on my WFL Ducos I just picked up. You guys rock. It came with a calf skin head, but not a fan of the sound.
Thanks again guys
I don't know what brillo pads or comet are? .. But I have had really good results using Windex (window cleaner) and for really thick gunk on coated heads Ajax powder or Jif paste.
On Clear heads good old Dawn with a soft cloth or sponge is as far as I go as any thing abrasive scratches & clouds up the head. I usually do these cleanups in the laundry tub and am fairly liberal with the water... but funny thing a while back, a couple of pinstripes with no "apparent" holes were found to be un-seaworthy and took in water between the layers.... took a few weeks hanging outdoors to drain...
Cheers
John
