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Bearing edge restoration

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Finally getting around to cleaning up the bearing edges on my Slingerland bass drum.

It's needed even more than the usual Slingerland 1/16" to get the reso side coplanar, and now I have this flat bearing edge.

I've gone through the process on about a dozen cheap rescue drums, and the method I've settled into with them is a roundover on the outside and a 45-degree on the inside, done on my router table, and then smoothed out by hand sanding.

I have some really nice-sounding cheap drums from this.

However, this is my vintage Slingerland bass drum, and I'm concerned about screwing up.

I don't think I can just cut an inside bevel, because the inside profile isn't a flat 30 or 40 degree bevel, it's a convex curve.

With vintage bearing edges in the past, I've flattened them and then restored the edge with hand sanding, but I think in this case, the flat spot is too wide in some places for that. It might work, but I want to know if there's a better way.

Experience? Ideas?

-Erik
______
Early '70's Slingerland New Rock #50 in blue agate (20-16-13-12)
Late '50's WFL Swingster/Barrett Deems in black/gold Duco
'70's Slingerland Gene Krupa Sound King COB
early '70's Ludwig Acrolite
'80's Ludwig Rocker II 6 1/2" snare
Rogers Supreme Big "R" hi hat

Posted on 10 years ago
#1
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As long as the edge is centered on the top of an inside ply, you can start your round-over and inside bevel from there. I would just even up the inside bevel (cut off the high part of the convex curve,) or just leave it alone and simply re-cut/sand the outside round-over. That way you don't alter the original edges too much. You will lose 1/16th or better at the edge, but it's not enough to have a bad effect on anything. Don't worry about the shape of the bevel (flat or convex,) the head rides on the edge and contacts the round-over, those are the critical points.

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 10 years ago
#2
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