Thank you,
Yes it should be done first , as a cabinet maker thats easy to unnderstand. We dont run rough edges through the shaper or router too often, but these drums I have been playing around with are cheepies and good to learn with and were flat enough to experiment on. If I ever get anything good I will take time to get a sanding surface as mentioned. The nice drums that I have scooped up have had really good edges.
Thanks,
Jeff C
Ya don`t really gotta take a multi-layered, good edge down much to re-cut e`m,...just square it flat by taking it down to the last three outer layers of a 45, and a round edge would be accordingly.
Mine have the 45 from the third layer going outside to inside, that layer to contact, and the last two to counter 45. Take`n the "edge-off" the contact layer and some candlewax really helps tunning. But dont sharpen the contact layer, you don`t wanna stab the head, you wanna stretch it !!
One of the reasons vintage drums have rounded edges is alot were three ply !!
I`ve seen photo`s that show different, but I wouldn`t use a re-ring as a contact layer !!
I've re-done bearing edges one time and was scared ****less because I finally obtained a very elusive matching snare and was afraid to render it un-playable.
But I took my time, and with some woodworking experience in my background, I decided to work them by hand.
I trued up the edges with the sandpaper and granite trick, then worked in what is pretty close to a 45 degree angle on the inside. Then I did a 30 degree on the outside, getting a nice crisp edge. Three coats of lacquer and I was blown away at how it sounded.
My intention was to buy modern wires to put on, but I was too anxious so I put the cheap originals back on. Now I'm afraid to change them because I really dig the sound!
Big thanks to all the guys that share their techniques!
A high proportion of the old drums that come up for a bearing edge redo have an inferior seal at the bearing edge. In terms of importance to the sound of the drums , the seal at the bearing edge trumps the actual location and conformation of the bearing edge. Most bearing edge work reestablishes a seal and that is the majority of what accounts for the improvement in performance but the goofing around with the bearing edge gets the credit , because it is currently trendy . The bearing edge conformation ,no doubt makes a difference but sealing the head and providing adequate correct venting are the first orders of business in bringing a drum up to it's potential.
If you are planning to use low tuning and or, one or both ,single ply or ultra flexible heads, the vent hole needs to be big enough to allow free passage of pressure. Excess back pressure can lead to air slip past the bearing edge, or if the edge is really secure, head back pressure, which f*s up the whole shebang and all the bearing edge kerfuffle is moot.
I'm not discounting the importance of bearing edge conformation and location but the quality of execution and intended use are more important.
One of the drum companies that I have some experience with , in a number of restos , changed the bearing edge from an outside , tapered 30* in, to a domed half round, without changing any other parameters. That issue wasn't as critical as the quality of seal and the venting x head/tuning ratio.
I`m strongly against putting vent holes in my rack toms and strongly suggest anyone else with concert toms not do that !!
