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And so it begins...almost

Posts: 343 Threads: 65

Hello All,

I mentioned in my introduction post that some of you may have seen my recent acquisition on eBay a few weeks ago. I haven't had a set of Radio Kings since I was a kid and didn't appreciate them for what they are. (My first set in the early 70's was a 50's era gold sparkle RK)

There's plenty that needs to be done to bring them back to their former glory and I'm not sure where to start. I decided to try and get answers to a few questions that I have first.

Dating: In trying to date these...looking at the badges on the snare and bass drum, it looks like these are the first oval badges which seems to date them from 1948 - 1950. This was also the thought of a member at DFO. Just looking for confirmation. Rob Cook's book doesn't mention Marble Lacquer as a finish option in this time period, but I've found a lot of conflicting information in Rob's book.

Bass Drum Hoop Inlay: Does anyone know what the correct inlay should be for Marble Lacquer bass drum hoops? Also, I've seen conflicting information about the color of hoops for this era. Should they be black or natural lacquer? One of the hoops has a pretty gnarly crack in it so I'm probably looking at sending them off (somewhere) to be worked on. This type of thing is FAR from my field of expertise. I was wondering if there is a way to photo scan the circumference of the bass drum and have custom inlay printed to match the Marble Lacquer finish. Is that crazy? Any body seen this done before?

13" Tom Outer Ply Damage: Photos say it all. This shell needs repair to the outer ply(?). Again, this type of work is far from what I do. I'd love some suggestions on what is possible for this drum and where I might be able to send it to be worked on. I've heard a lot of good things about Jack Lawton.

Snare Drum: I'm pretty giddy about having a matching 7x14 snare as part of this kit! Looks to be a single ply.

- What is it? I can't really tell from the Slingerland Book which model this drum is. Is it a Hollywood Ace? Looks to be single ply?

- Obviously I need to replace the resonant head and I'd love to know what heads work best on these drums. I'm sure the information is readily available with a search, but in case something new has come available I thought I'd still ask.

- 3 point strainer. The lugs on this drum are nickel, what about the strainer? Obviously the top handle is badly bent and looks to be rusted or missing all of the coating. I'm worried this piece can't be salvaged. The strainer itself seems very stiff and possibly not functioning like it should. Maybe it just needs some TLC. I'm looking for advice on how to handle the strainer, butt and snares. Unbelievably the snare wires are in tact! They look great too. The rivets are in place for the aluminum (?) straps and there is only a little bit of rust on one part of the wire frame. Can and should the strainer be disassembled and cleaned? Is this something a novice can do? I'm pretty nervous about messing this up. Also, there is one tiny mounting screw missing from the strainer assembly. If anyone has one to spare I'd be grateful.

Calf Heads: I'd like to be able to play these drums, not just clean them and look at them. Should I plan on storing the original calf heads or should I use them? I know this is a personal choice, but I suppose I'm specifically wondering if this is a no-brainer type of question, as in "those are 60-year old original calf heads, are you nuts playing them?!?!?!". Interested in your thoughts about this.

A lot of work lies ahead. I haven't even inspected the cymbals and hardware closely. Miscellaneous items include the bass drum pedal, hi hat stand, snare stand (all rusty), cowbell, wood block and cymbals! I don't see anything extraordinary with the cymbals, but I suppose I should take photos and see if anyone can identify them. A few are stamped "Made in Italy".

I know I threw a lot out there for you all to weigh in on. While I'm excited to get going, I want to be very careful and not take shortcuts. Thanks in advance. Now for the photos...

Photos from the seller's eBay listing:

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjKYYGmc

Photos of the damaged 13" tom:

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjLxnAMj

Photos of the 7x14 Snare:

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjLHavMG

(bent strainer handle pics in "photos from seller")

Thanks for looking and advising!

Dan

aka red66charger

Dan
(red66charger)

Looking for:
- L.A. Camco 12" Stradivarius Tom Tom
Posted on 10 years ago
#1
Posts: 731 Threads: 59

That is an awesome kit.

I'll let all the "experts" around here answer questions.

That kick pedal is awesome too.

That kit will be great when you are finished with it I'm sure.

Even if you pay someone to work on it for you. :D

www.macdrums.com
Posted on 10 years ago
#2
Posts: 6432 Threads: 290

I will be thinking on a repair for the ply seperation but for now Im not sure exactly what to do. Glue it back together of course but how to keep it round.

Do you have a junk drum the same size that you could cut in half (edge to edge) to make a mold for the clamp up proceedure? That might work but the curve might not be close enough. I will keep thinking!

Jeff C


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 10 years ago
#3
Posts: 1342 Threads: 71

That is an OMG fantastic kit! I have an old Slingerland lower level kit that has the Marble laquer finish. The bass drum hoops are a light brown and the inlays are gold sparkle. The inlay looks original. I can't tell if the brown paint is or not. It looks good with the marble finish. Of course my kit is not spit polished so everything kind of blends in together. Good luck on your kit. It will be beautiful when your done.

Posted on 10 years ago
#4
Posts: 343 Threads: 65

With some solid advice from nopork I've already purchased a vibratory tumbler and walnut shell media for the metal bits. I thought he was pulling my leg when he first explained the process to me! After looking at the pics of his finished kits...I'm a believer. It's the wood work I'm going to have to farm out.

Dan

Dan
(red66charger)

Looking for:
- L.A. Camco 12" Stradivarius Tom Tom
Posted on 10 years ago
#5
Posts: 407 Threads: 27

That is incredible! I will be watching this restoration closely. All the best.

late 60s Ludwig Standard kit (blue strata)
late 60s Star kit (red satin)
Tama Rockstar Custom
a few snares ...
Posted on 10 years ago
#6
Posts: 10714 Threads: 579

All of this I have performed so many times on Radio kings I've lost count. Would be happy to do the restoration work for you ? the 3 point snare strainer only needs an extension lever to make it complete. The problem you are describing is very common, they do have a particular way to assemble and dis assemble them the 3 point strainers.

Your drummers not much good is he!? What you need is someone that's as good as me. ! John Henry Bonham !!
Posted on 10 years ago
#7
Posts: 6583 Threads: 644

I THINK John Aldridge still has repro strainer arms for RK 3 points..

NSMDJohn @aol.com

"Always make sure your front bottom BD lugs clear the ground!"
Posted on 10 years ago
#8
Posts: 6583 Threads: 644

From red66charger

Hello All,I mentioned in my introduction post that some of you may have seen my recent acquisition on eBay a few weeks ago. I haven't had a set of Radio Kings since I was a kid and didn't appreciate them for what they are. (My first set in the early 70's was a 50's era gold sparkle RK)There's plenty that needs to be done to bring them back to their former glory and I'm not sure where to start. I decided to try and get answers to a few questions that I have first.Dating: In trying to date these...looking at the badges on the snare and bass drum, it looks like these are the first oval badges which seems to date them from 1948 - 1950. This was also the thought of a member at DFO. Just looking for confirmation. Rob Cook's book doesn't mention Marble Lacquer as a finish option in this time period, but I've found a lot of conflicting information in Rob's book.Bass Drum Hoop Inlay: Does anyone know what the correct inlay should be for Marble Lacquer bass drum hoops? Also, I've seen conflicting information about the color of hoops for this era. Should they be black or natural lacquer? One of the hoops has a pretty gnarly crack in it so I'm probably looking at sending them off (somewhere) to be worked on. This type of thing is FAR from my field of expertise. I was wondering if there is a way to photo scan the circumference of the bass drum and have custom inlay printed to match the Marble Lacquer finish. Is that crazy? Any body seen this done before?13" Tom Outer Ply Damage: Photos say it all. This shell needs repair to the outer ply(?). Again, this type of work is far from what I do. I'd love some suggestions on what is possible for this drum and where I might be able to send it to be worked on. I've heard a lot of good things about Jack Lawton. Snare Drum: I'm pretty giddy about having a matching 7x14 snare as part of this kit! Looks to be a single ply. - What is it? I can't really tell from the Slingerland Book which model this drum is. Is it a Hollywood Ace? Looks to be single ply? - Obviously I need to replace the resonant head and I'd love to know what heads work best on these drums. I'm sure the information is readily available with a search, but in case something new has come available I thought I'd still ask. - 3 point strainer. The lugs on this drum are nickel, what about the strainer? Obviously the top handle is badly bent and looks to be rusted or missing all of the coating. I'm worried this piece can't be salvaged. The strainer itself seems very stiff and possibly not functioning like it should. Maybe it just needs some TLC. I'm looking for advice on how to handle the strainer, butt and snares. Unbelievably the snare wires are in tact! They look great too. The rivets are in place for the aluminum (?) straps and there is only a little bit of rust on one part of the wire frame. Can and should the strainer be disassembled and cleaned? Is this something a novice can do? I'm pretty nervous about messing this up. Also, there is one tiny mounting screw missing from the strainer assembly. If anyone has one to spare I'd be grateful.Calf Heads: I'd like to be able to play these drums, not just clean them and look at them. Should I plan on storing the original calf heads or should I use them? I know this is a personal choice, but I suppose I'm specifically wondering if this is a no-brainer type of question, as in "those are 60-year old original calf heads, are you nuts playing them?!?!?!". Interested in your thoughts about this.A lot of work lies ahead. I haven't even inspected the cymbals and hardware closely. Miscellaneous items include the bass drum pedal, hi hat stand, snare stand (all rusty), cowbell, wood block and cymbals! I don't see anything extraordinary with the cymbals, but I suppose I should take photos and see if anyone can identify them. A few are stamped "Made in Italy".I know I threw a lot out there for you all to weigh in on. While I'm excited to get going, I want to be very careful and not take shortcuts. Thanks in advance. Now for the photos...Photos from the seller's eBay listing:http://flic.kr/s/aHsjKYYGmcPhotos of the damaged 13" tom:http://flic.kr/s/aHsjLxnAMjPhotos of the 7x14 Snare:http://flic.kr/s/aHsjLHavMG(bent strainer handle pics in "photos from seller")Thanks for looking and advising!Danaka red66charger

In around 1948...they switched from having C Clips over the rims on the toms....so assume it is pre that...1946-47?

"Always make sure your front bottom BD lugs clear the ground!"
Posted on 10 years ago
#9
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37

I`d start by stripping the trim off and fix`n the 13" tom shell. All this time on the shells gives plenty to soak the rusted parts.

Do you have a red 66 dodge fastback ?

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 10 years ago
#10
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