Thankee kindly mister

Didn't work... dang it!

The 6mm end is not threaded.... almost worked, but no

I was searching for something similar and found this article.

Eventually, I came up with my own solution. What I was trying to do was adapt a 6mm cymbal stand to vintage cymbals with holes designed for 1/4" stands, but the answer is pretty much the same either way. I constructed some thread adapters as follows:

1. Start with 1/4" thread couplers purchased from Lowe's.

2. Drill halfway through the thread coupler with a 15/16" bit.

3. Tap that end with an M6 thread. I bought a set of taps at Harbor Freight. This was the first time I've ever tapped screw threads, but it wasn't difficult. Somewhere I read that you should go slowly and lubricate the tap with oil, so that's what I did. I also backed out the tap every turn or so to clear the shavings out.

4. Into the end of the thread coupler that is still tapped for 1/4" threads, insert a 1/4" bolt that's about 2 inches long.

5. Cut off the head of the bolt. (I used a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel, but a hacksaw would also work. If you use a Dremel tool be careful to not cut entirely through the bolt, but leave just a little bit. You can then break off the bolt head with a pair of pliers. That way, you won't break your cutter wheel.). It helps to have a vise to hold the piece still, though vise-grip pliers can do in a pinch. It can also help to have a 1/4" nut threaded onto the bolt to jam against the thread coupler to keep the bolt from turning while you're cutting it, especially if you're using a hacksaw.

6. [optional] Remove the bolt (and jam nut, if you used one) from the thread coupler, turn it around, and screw the end that you just cut off into the thread coupler. (Because generally the end that you cut off won't be as nice as the other end of the bolt).

7. See if the adapter you've made works. Try threading it onto the top of a cymbal stand. I used the wing nut from the cymbal stand (screwed on upside-down) as a jam nut to keep the thread adapter from turning.

8. Once you're sure that the adapter works, remove the adapter from the cymbal stand. Remove the bolt from the thread coupler again, and apply red Loctite thread sealant around the lower 3/8" or so of thread. Screw the end of the bolt with Loctite on it, back in to the thread coupler. This will keep the bolt from being removed from the thread coupler without a blowtorch. LET THE LOCTITE DRY BEFORE PUTTING IT BACK ON A CYMBAL STAND, just in case some of it drips down. (Unless, of course, you want to permanently mount your thread adapter to the cymbal stand).

I also made some cymbal sleeves out of nylon spacers that I bought at Lowe's. Finding spacers with an appropriate exterior diameter wasn't difficult, but I had to enlarge the holes in the spacers to 1/4" with a drill. (1/4" cymbal sleeves can still be found, but this was quicker than mail order.) I also bought 1/4" wing nuts at Lowe's though they're a bit smaller than the ones normally used with cymbals.

Anyway, now I can play my vintage cymbals with my modern kit, without having the cymbal stand threads cut keyholes into the cymbals.

Making an adapter for a cymbal stand with 1/4" threads to have an M6 thread for newer cymbals would be done the same way, except that you'd use an M6 bolt that's about 5cm long to cut off, and you'd screw the bolt into the end of the thread coupler that you'd tapped for M6 threads.

Hey kevins what are you trying to do? I don't quite get the picture of why you are trying to do this?

If it is for your vintage/small cymbal mounting hole cymbals that won't fit on 8mm stands, have you ever considered having a professional drum shop widen the center hole slightly on your cymbal? This doesn't affect the sound or structural integrity of the cymbal at all, and makes it more versatile. I've had it done before on some old A's and it worked fine with no problems.

Is that what you're looking to do? If so, are you reluctant to modify your cymbals?

Thanks for the ideas fellas.

I was trying to do more with less at the time, ya know?

I got over that over the past three years and bought a bunch of older and newer stands.

So, I wound up with a set-up of sixties flat base Slingerland, five small footprint early seventies BR straight stands, two seventies model 68 Slingerland boom stands, a set-up of Ludwig Hercules, and a set-up of Ludwig Atlas swivel feet stands.

Got the bases covered now, I think, took a while.....:)

Kev, wish I would have seen this 3 years ago. I would have suggested buying what mcjnic posted and then thread the 6mm end. Or had you send them to me to tap...

Oh well, next time... ;)

That's very kind of you, thanks very much!!

I'll take you up on the "next time" when it's next time!

Kev

:)

There are Slingerland knockoff tilters around for very little. Buy a few, cut off the studs and bore a hole into the remainder of the stud with a 13/64 drill(it's supposed to be a #7 but they are uncommon and a 13/64 is only 2 thou bigger). You then have a hole in which you can tap a 1/4 x 20 thread into the tilter. Buy some 1/4 x 20 threaded rod , cut it into lengths , clean up the cut ends and thread the rod into the tilter with permanent locktite.You now have 1/4 inch studs(you will need thin sleeves over them to protect the cymbals), which are only 14 thou larger than 6mm. If you feel you need 6mm studs then find some 15/64 threaded rod but it will be a little harder to find as will the tap. It is just 2 thou smaller than 6mm. You will need to drill a 3/16 or preferably a #10 hole to tap that and if you should be able to find a 6mm threaded rod(maybe not so easy in the U.S. as it is in Canada) you can use the 3/16" drill for the tapping hole as well but it will cut slightly tighter(good for holding the stud firmly).

You then have some dedicated small diameter tilters, no adapters needed.

By the way, you need not pay a huge sum for taps and or dies. The cheaper kits on ebay or from a tool jobber will do for this type of application. A single 1/4 x 20 tap or even a 15/64 or 6mm tap can be had for a few dollars.They are usually tungsten steel and work perfectly. You don't need a 30.00 tap! I've used cheap tungsten taps and dies for 30 years ---hardly any have broken and some of them have cut a hundred threads or more.

Anyone looking to 6mm to 8mm cymbal adapter - This will work.

Got the "M8 TO M6 THREADED BAR / ROD / STUD CONNECTOR/REDUCER" on Ebay from the UK 5 connectors plus cost & shipping(registered mail)

was about $30.00 U.S. The 6mm set screws from Fastenal for around 65 cents a piece and the 8mm threaded rods from AdvanceAuto(manifold studs)

The connectors are 1 1/2" long, the 6m set screws are 1 3/4" long, and the 8m screws are 1 1/2" long. Already tried them on a cymbal top and works great. Could be used with the cymbal stackers.