how to approach bearing edge crack on Radioking
 

Just got this late 50s (?) Radioking snare. Upon removal of batter head, I noticed that the top of the seam at the bearing edge has separated. Separation is only at the top. The shell could be rounder-as the head was pretty tight on it.

I can work the metal more even on the crack to make the edges even for sure.
Can I rejoin the seam with silver solder or other soldering? Or just leave alone?

I feel like I should fix that seem before working on roundness?
Erich

Re: how to approach bearing edge crack on Radioking
 

Silver solder will work there, but the heat will make the chrome discolored. Not lead/rosin core stuff at all, that will just break away from a chromed surface, if you can get any to stick, or fatigue from vibrations.

Re: how to approach bearing edge crack on Radioking
 

+1 with this! What I'd like to add is that you should remove the chrome around the effected area before using the silver solder. Try to get it down to seeing the brass. It looks like the area in question is small enough that any cosmetic issues will be covered up by the head! This is a drum worth saving! Good luck...and post pictures when it's complete!

-Mark

Re: how to approach bearing edge crack on Radioking
 

Thanks for the replies! Could you recommend which silver solder? I think there are a few melting temps. Also, what flux?
Another bit-the shell is slightly out of round on the affected side. I can force a head on. Should I try to get the shell round before soldering or after?
Thanks,
Erich

Re: how to approach bearing edge crack on Radioking
 

Hi Erich!

Yes, I'd try to get the shell in-round first. I've had a few out-of-round COB shells in the past...all Slingerland! What I do is to completely remove all the hardware and then set the shell on a towel on my concrete garage floor. The more oval side faces up/down and then I apply gentle pressure pushing down on the shell. Naturally, you don't want to push too hard and squash the shell! It's one of those things that you can feel while applying pressure. Do it a few times and then check with a drum head. Continue this method until the head fits well. Brass shells are relatively soft and can be put back in-round.

Let's from others as to what methods they've used!

-Mark

Re: how to approach bearing edge crack on Radioking
 

I completely forgot to ask what heads you're using. First, using a ruler or tape measure, how much out-of-round is the shell? If not too much, you might want to try using Remo Classic Fit heads. They use a thinner metal ring, allowing for more "space" between the ring and shell. Might be worth a try if you're hesitant about using pressure to get the shell back in-round.

-Mark

Re: how to approach bearing edge crack on Radioking
 

Good option. I was trying an Evans G2 coated. I am up for squeezing the shell a bit. I leveled out the part where the crack is. One side was higher than the other.
I will try the classic first and make an assessment prior to squeezing. It may be 1/16-1/8 inch out
Erich

Re: how to approach bearing edge crack on Radioking
 

I would get the shell in round and get the edge back in alignment and the reassemble the drum. See If the crack is causing any noise or other audible problems. If the are no problems I would be inclined to leave it alone. I have an old Gretchen timbale wit a similar crack and it has never caused any problems. If there are problems then silver solder would be my recommendation too.

Re: how to approach bearing edge crack on Radioking
 

Very sound advice! I get it that we want our vintage drums to be a "perfect" as possible. But, if the risks outweigh the advantages, it may be best to leave well enough alone!

For myself, I've been able to get out-of-round shells back in-round enough to float heads. I would certainly weigh your options and make an informed decision.

-Mark

Re: how to approach bearing edge crack on Radioking
 

Good bit of options. Good to know it can potentially be stable. Originally there was an ancient diplomat head on there that was hard to remove. Sounded papery. Also the but end of the strainer was pushed in so the snares needed to be spread out far to get contact. Fixed those dents pretty easy.
Erich