jonrpick,

I`m a carpenter and have delt with all kinds of plywoods and damage to them. Maybe the wrap can be fixed with clear glue set in with a pointed funel and then with a heat gun roll it down with a seam roller, and the mount could cover the missing pieces.....

...But, that plywood is splintered all the way through and has no strenghth to it at all, I would cut that out rafter to rafter and replace it, ..you can`t,..nothing to bridge over to,...

To steal a line from a Gordon Lightfoot song,....."The captain wired in he had water comming in and the good ship and crew was imperelled,....and later that night when his lights went out of sight,...came the wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald !!....

It would cost way too much for a talented person like me to cut a strip out with a 45 (or whatever the angle is) degree bevel and replace it with curved piece with the opposite bevel , glued and clamped, sanded and refinished to match inside,...but what would you do with the wrap issue ??

Let her go down !!

Have to agree with Oddball.

I'm also a carpenter and have done numerous repairs on drums.

But that one is toast.

Unless you have lot's of patients and another drum you can cut a piece out of it's gonna take one heck of a lot of work.

The wrap is far to gone also. Looks like brittle glass.

probaly the best bet is to say good night irene and start looking for a sutible replacement. even if a qualified skilled labour fixes it. and not to mention the cost. there no garantie that it would last. the tom post and the toms would add so much stress and weight that eventulay you would have re ocurring problems with it. just my advice good luck i know it sucks

This would be the drum you cut pieces out of to fix other drums.

If he had another broken shell,...yes. If this drum was 1/2",..it would be better to use a drum 5/8" of the same material, this gives you plus stock to sand down and hide the joints. You need to cut the strip from one edge to the other,..a small patch would never hold the weight or stay in long cuz it would have four sides weakened !!

If you don`t know how to take the numbers or do the cut,..you`ll be re-try`n foreva !!

I forgot to mention, the wrap is long gone...already removed.

One thing that was recommended was fiberglassing the hole and sanding and filling until the outer contour matched. I figured that recovering it would be the only option--cosmetically. The hardware that once occupied that hole didn't come with the drum and will never be replaced.

However, as mentioned, there is a lot of good wood left here, and my "new" 32" drum has the exact same holes with the mounts still in place. I hadn't considered it, but it would be possible to use a section of this shell to repair/replace the wood in my newer shell. It would still require beveling the holes and a lot of hand-fitting to make the patch fit. Still, that's. a fairly viable option.

Hmm...

Thoughts???

~Jon

Yes you could. Keep in mind,..the inside is smaller than the outside. Your filler piece should be larger at the inside face of the hole to accomidate for blade with. Bevel it slightly, not alot, hammer it in after you apply the glue (wood glue that`s waterproof) and it should tighten up before becomming flush, (like a wine barrel bunghole plug). cover the plug so you don`t get hammer marks on it. It should be sticking up a little and you can sand in the direction of the grain til it is flush. If you take your time and hand sand, you can really hide the joint well. Fill in the outside face wth fiberglass or wood filler then sand smooth. You wont see that. Be sure to cover all mateing sufaces with glue.(the plug and the drum).

This poor little fella is just too far gone Rolf, he'll have to be humanely euthanised. Hmmm cha, ahaaaa cha, ahmmm cha, ahaaaa. Sun a rise, early in da mornin'...