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MIJ...SO QUIET shhhhhh

Posts: 2433 Threads: 483
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It cant be the thin shells because Gretsch shells are thin and roar like thunder,when they need to,but these MIJ shells are so much quieter in comparrison.They serve a purpose no doubt,but im finding they dont cut enough for me to use regularly....opinions?

Hit like you mean it!!
Posted on 14 years ago
#1
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I agree whole heartedly.

You can see in the development of the Japanese manufacturers product lines ( like 67-73 for exampe)how they increased the thickness of their shells right along the same timeline as music was getting louder.

It`s the porous luan- it doesn`t reflect the sound around the shell like hardwoods.

For me, it`s important to have a nice luan kit- it`s a warm, subdued tone and softer volume that compliments a wood bass, small rooms, or a relatively unplugged situations. But you gotta have a hardwood kit as well- no one I have ever heard of has done a major tour with an MIJ-

For info. & live schedule:
www.EricWiegmanndrums.com
*Odery Drums Japan endorser/ representative
*Japan Distributor of Vruk DrumMaster pedals
*D'Addario Japan Evans/Promark/Puresound
*Amedia Cymbals Japan

It's the journey not the destination.
Posted on 14 years ago
#2
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What Japanese shells are you talking about? The luan shells? they are indeed very thin, thinner than Gretsch, and fragile, needing re-rings even in the middle of the shells at times. Typical Gretsch shells are thicker in diameter than the thinnest part of, say, a 70s Ludwig 3 ply shell.

Types of heads used makes a difference, but the sturdiness of the shell and the cheapness of the wood are 2 things on the list.

Posted on 14 years ago
#3
Posts: 3972 Threads: 180
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That's why I coat the insides with hardwax oil. It's a commercial grade wood floor hard coating that really allows these shells to resonate. This has been discussed many times. Before we go down some odd little road, remember that lots of drummers coat the insides of maple kits with fiberglass. It's been done for years.

Posted on 14 years ago
#4
Posts: 2433 Threads: 483
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Lets keep this on a shell to shell comparison without "coating" shells with any recipes,or additives to enhance productivity...no blue pillsExcited

Hit like you mean it!!
Posted on 14 years ago
#5
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Yeah the 3 and 4 ply with re-rings do tend to be quieter, but they do resonate like nobodies business. However, I am with everyone else on this, "blue pills" are certianly needed, and my choice is lacquer. I have not used the hardwax oil. As a matter of fact, I haven't heard it used in drums.

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 14 years ago
#6
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From mcjnic

That's why I coat the insides with hardwax oil. It's a commercial grade wood floor hard coating that really allows these shells to resonate. This has been discussed many times. Before we go down some odd little road, remember that lots of drummers coat the insides of maple kits with fiberglass. It's been done for years.

Neil Peart always played a kit with the drums coated on the insides with fiberglass, to name one.

"If it doesn't matter who wins or loses then why the hell do they keep score Peg? - Al Bundy
Posted on 14 years ago
#7
Posts: 3972 Threads: 180
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From jonnistix

Yeah the 3 and 4 ply with re-rings do tend to be quieter, but they do resonate like nobodies business. However, I am with everyone else on this, "blue pills" are certianly needed, and my choice is lacquer. I have not used the hardwax oil. As a matter of fact, I haven't heard it used in drums.

I've not met anyone else that uses it either. It's something I found over the years that really does a supreme job. Without it, the shells absorb too much. They are too soft. I found that lacquer coats. But, hard wax oil goes deep into the wood and hardens. It actually makes the wood itself harder ... and it coats. It also gives the wood a nice color tone. Nice stuff.

Posted on 14 years ago
#8
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From mcjnic

I've not met anyone else that uses it either. It's something I found over the years that really does a supreme job. Without it, the shells absorb too much. They are too soft. I found that lacquer coats. But, hard wax oil goes deep into the wood and hardens. It actually makes the wood itself harder ... and it coats. It also gives the wood a nice color tone. Nice stuff.

Hey Michael, glad to see you are starting to feel better. Is this the same thing as Tung Oil? Or similar? Jaye uses Tung Oil and swears at it, I mean by it....is it available at HD or Lowes?

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 14 years ago
#9
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thanks for the info on oil and wood floor wax on inner shells- these make alot of sense- am considering it.

For info. & live schedule:
www.EricWiegmanndrums.com
*Odery Drums Japan endorser/ representative
*Japan Distributor of Vruk DrumMaster pedals
*D'Addario Japan Evans/Promark/Puresound
*Amedia Cymbals Japan

It's the journey not the destination.
Posted on 14 years ago
#10
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