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Apollo snare restoration

Posts: 657 Threads: 40
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After sitting in the basement for months, I've finally finished my WMP Apollo snare drum.

This thing was missing a bunch of parts, but the edges had supposedly been done by a pro. So I found the inserts and hoops locally (Stick Saver copies) and got everything else from drumfactorydirect (snare wires for $4.27!) I drilled the shell for a new P-85 type strainer, but left the original holes in case someone might want to put the original strainer back on (not likely, I know.) I threw a Remo Fiberskyn on the batter side because I thought it gave the drum an old school look. So far, the sound is pretty decent, though it's tuned pretty low.

I'd like to thank Jonnistix for all the helpful tips and videos.

Before pics:

Posted on 14 years ago
#1
Posts: 657 Threads: 40
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After pics:

Posted on 14 years ago
#2
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Very nice! Looks great, just like mine, except with Sound King lugs. Those edges look factory to me. Tune it up a little and give it work out. It'll hold it, I keep mine in the mid to upper on those thin shells. I would let them down when not in use tho. Great work!

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 14 years ago
#3
Posts: 657 Threads: 40
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Thanks, John. I gave the interiors a good sanding with 220 grit. The wood grain isn't beautiful but it smoothed up nicely. The edges aren't factory. I should have taken some pics. Someone put a nice contour on them, a bit sharper on the outside of the edge but with a nice round inside edge going into the re-ring. And they're very smooth. I didn't have to mess with them at all.

The stainer I got from drumfactorydirect is the S-10 strainer. I picked it because I thought the design matched the lugs, the Slingerland shape. And the butt plate cost a whole $1.85. Probably a 13 dollar purchase at one of my local shops... After searching for more metric t-rods I gave up and decided to swap them out for standards. Thankfully the inserts fit right into the lug and gave me no grief.

So, one project down, about 4 to go, and one on the way.

Oh, and thanks for the tip on detuning the drum when not in use. This makes sense with the batter side, as it's usually tuned up a bit higher, but will I need to detune the snare side as well? I have it tuned up to about an 'A.' Doesn't seem too tight.

Posted on 14 years ago
#4
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From cn679

Thanks, John. I gave the interiors a good sanding with 220 grit. The wood grain isn't beautiful but it smoothed up nicely. The edges aren't factory. I should have taken some pics. Someone put a nice contour on them, a bit sharper on the outside of the edge but with a nice round inside edge going into the re-ring. And they're very smooth. I didn't have to mess with them at all. The stainer I got from drumfactorydirect is the S-10 strainer. I picked it because I thought the design matched the lugs, the Slingerland shape. And the butt plate cost a whole $1.85. Probably a 13 dollar purchase at one of my local shops... After searching for more metric t-rods I gave up and decided to swap them out for standards. Thankfully the inserts fit right into the lug and gave me no grief. So, one project down, about 4 to go, and one on the way. Oh, and thanks for the tip on detuning the drum when not in use. This makes sense with the batter side, as it's usually tuned up a bit higher, but will I need to detune the snare side as well? I have it tuned up to about an 'A.' Doesn't seem too tight.

Only on the really thin shells do I do this because they tend to warp if left tuned up tight.

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 14 years ago
#5
Posts: 5291 Threads: 226
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Jonnistix,

I didn't know that it's a good idea to de-tune when not in use. Would this mainly apply just to the thinner drums or would it be good practice to de-tune the thicker shells as well?

Cheers

1976 Ludwig Mach 4 Thermogloss 26-18-14-14sn
1978 Ludwig Stainless 22-22-18-16-14-13-12 c/w 6-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-22-24 concert toms
1975 Sonor Phonic Centennials Metallic Pewter 22-16-13-12-14sn (D506)
1971 Ludwig Classic Bowling Ball OBP 22-16-14-13
1960's Stewart Peacock Pearl 20-16-12-14sn
1980`s Ludwig Coliseum Piano Black 8x14 snare
1973 Rogers Superten 5x14 & 6.5x14 COS snares
1970`s John Grey Capri Aquamarine Sparkle 5x14 snare
1941 Ludwig & Ludwig Super 8x14 snare
Posted on 14 years ago
#6
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Well, it can't hurt on any drum as it would seem to keep the head from stretching over time, but the thing about these MIJ thin shelled drums is, well, you might not really want to know....the shell is kinda weak. I have a couple that are really damaged from tension and over tensioning tends to pull the strainer into the shell. See, many of these never had snare beds, so getting the snares right took high tension on the wires, so the strainer and butt get pulled on, and then stay too tight for many years, and you end up with cracked shells, and many people don't even know they are cracked. You can't see the damage until you have the drum down to the wrap.

As a side note, I am getting ready to do another project snare. I have another unique drum. It is a 5 ply with rings, and has a factory roundover edge. I am going to veneer the exterior in BE maple. I'll post the before pix. 5 PLY...with rings? Cool liottle drum. I have not played it. It is going to be a custom rework.

From grantro

Jonnistix, I didn't know that it's a good idea to de-tune when not in use. Would this mainly apply just to the thinner drums or would it be good practice to de-tune the thicker shells as well? Cheers

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 14 years ago
#7
Posts: 5291 Threads: 226
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That sounds like a nice project Jonni. Please post some pics before and after!! Good luck.

Cheers

1976 Ludwig Mach 4 Thermogloss 26-18-14-14sn
1978 Ludwig Stainless 22-22-18-16-14-13-12 c/w 6-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-22-24 concert toms
1975 Sonor Phonic Centennials Metallic Pewter 22-16-13-12-14sn (D506)
1971 Ludwig Classic Bowling Ball OBP 22-16-14-13
1960's Stewart Peacock Pearl 20-16-12-14sn
1980`s Ludwig Coliseum Piano Black 8x14 snare
1973 Rogers Superten 5x14 & 6.5x14 COS snares
1970`s John Grey Capri Aquamarine Sparkle 5x14 snare
1941 Ludwig & Ludwig Super 8x14 snare
Posted on 14 years ago
#8
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