From the look of the break, I wonder when the other hoop will go. It looks a lot like the balsa and basswood I use in model airplanes. I've never had a hoop break, but I suppose the older growth wood is much stronger in single ply and when laminated.

:2Cents: - I am an elf of very little experience here - I've done one repair on a Rogers 28" hoop. Epoxy worked well for me in spite of my lack of experience, both in hoop repair & working with epoxy - my 1st time for both. - - I went w/ epoxy after much online research. I agree w/ jonnistix tension / torque thoughts. As my hoop [maple i think] was broken diagonally along the grain, it was a tricky repair - due in part to the hoop being twisted at the break.

Your project seems a bit more straight forward and should be pretty easy from the looks of it. - - I'm zero in the expert area on this, but the epoxy fix has held up since May '09 so far.

Here's the original break pic...

There is not a lot of wood surface for the glue to bond. Imho you need a new hoop. It might glue back but will most likely fail again. Epoxy would be the glue of choice if you will have any success at all. Sorry to be a doubting Thomas but my years of experience says otherwise.

If it fits together nicely I'd try gluing it with Titebond ll or lll and use small C-clamps (as many as you can) to hold it. You can use pieces of plastic (I cut pieces of old Miracle Grow pvv containers for this) under the C-clamps as the glue won't stick well to them and they can help prevent dents. You could use small blocks of wood under the clamps but they might stick unless you put the plastic under them.

I strongly recommend using the best professional grade glue you can (Titebond ll or lll) and not some craft glue like Elmers.

I will use a piece of a drum shell with clear packaging tape stuck to it on both sides of the c-clamps. The glue wont stick to the plastic tape and the curved wood will apply uniform pressure to the clamped area.

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All these little wood spikes fit right back together

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Hey Poppy, I use Tite Bond too and it holds great and that's been on overlaps, it will hold this with no problem at all with very little mess and an easy clean up. I use fake plastic hard wood floor planks under my c clamps. You can get them cheap and use them long or cut squares for right under the clamps and they take a ton of pressure. And they are flexible.

Are you talking about laminate wood floor planks? I have some of those, but i still think a piece of drum shell will work better.

laminate wood floor planks <----- yes....thanks, brain fade this morning. It's just a suggestion, since they are flexible and really don't have a grain you can just pop them on and off, inside or outside and not really worring about embossing a ghost on the finish.

Go for it, just don't guarantee it!

Ok Y'all, I get er clamped. Found a 15' band clamp at home depot for $12.99. All it is, is a 15' ratchet tie down type apparatus. It has a 7/16 head, tightening bolt, with a slot in it for tightening with a straight screwdriver. I put a plastic bowtie lug gasket over the break inside and out, got the band clamp tight, then a piece of 1/4" Masonite on top of the lug gasket and clamped that with a c-clamp. I'm pretty sure the break will barley be seen after completion, and i am almost positive the Tite Bond II will keep it together from now on.

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