A local drummer asked me If I can fix this. Im sure I can, dont have a set plan yet though. What is the best way to clamp this after gluing it, and how much should i charge him. I was sorta thinking a couple of extra large zip ties to clamp it. I'd appreciate any advice here.
Thanks,
poppy
Damn poppy that's nasty, not much to work with there. The couple that I've done had come apart at the overlap so I just clamped on each side. Maybe a long rachet type tie down?
The break fits back together nicely. If I find an appropriate clamp I have no doubt it will work just fine. The ratchet tie down sounds like a fabulous idea, especially since I already have some. I was thinking $20-$35 for charges.
I think that sounds like a good price. :)
Use a very high bond epoxy for this, and TRY to keep it off the paint, I dare ya...Eye Ball and I have to say the ratchet strap is gonna be the best idea, wrapped tight around the collar, with maybe a pc of veneer or may a piece of that dead nauga ya got layin' about...I sure hope it works, and if not, you can always call him back and tell him it will be a new one. You can get the 10 ply 1 3/4" from www.aitwood.com for about 23.00 bucks delivered, give or take a buck or two, and then pull the inlay, if that is what you got and router the band to fit. Then sell it back to him for 65.00. The Ludwig one will cost about 100, if he ever finds one the replace it. I am goning on a m ission to combat, or rather compete with the sellers. I can buy a new hoopp for 25, router it and put the original inlay back for a lot less than replacing it wioth an old, rickety one that is going to break anyway. That might be worth looking into with a break like this poppy.
After lookin' that over again, that is paint, roght? And I'll bet you can get the formula from Ludwig for it. It might be less headache and more profit...I don't know if I could take the aggravation of trying that one. Good luck either way. AIT is a great place, and they are great people. If you haven't used them for replacement parts yet, you will, the hoops are the same as all the big boys are using, just not routered for you, that you have to do on yer own....They are all made by Keller, and this is the cheapest place on the net to get them, all original specs to boot.
I have a plan now.The ratchet strap, with a piece of rubber under the ratchet mechanism, with a c-clamp on the break Perpendicular to the strap. Clamping long ways and side ways. I'll use a piece of rubber and a piece of drum shell on both sides of the c-clamp. I will use titebond wood glue. I think it will be good as new, and it wont show under a claw at the top of the drum.
Use a very high bond epoxy for this, and TRY to keep it off the paint, I dare ya...Eye Ball and I have to say the ratchet strap is gonna be the best idea, wrapped tight around the collar, with maybe a pc of veneer or may a piece of that dead nauga ya got layin' about...I sure hope it works, and if not, you can always call him back and tell him it will be a new one. You can get the 10 ply 1 3/4" from www.aitwood.com for about 23.00 bucks delivered, give or take a buck or two, and then pull the inlay, if that is what you got and router the band to fit. Then sell it back to him for 65.00. The Ludwig one will cost about 100, if he ever finds one the replace it. I am goning on a m ission to combat, or rather compete with the sellers. I can buy a new hoopp for 25, router it and put the original inlay back for a lot less than replacing it wioth an old, rickety one that is going to break anyway. That might be worth looking into with a break like this poppy.
Rubbing alcohol will take epoxy off before it sets completely. The trick is to get the right amount of epoxy into the break and hope the excess rises just to surface level. In cool weather, you should have plenty of time to work before it gets too gooey, but adding a little heat will temporarily thin the epoxy allowing it to soak into tighter areas. A slow cure 30-45 minute epoxy (find it at a radio control airplane hobby shop) will give the strongest bond, but needs 24 hours to be sure. I glue wing halves together with the stuff and it holds together with 8-12 G loads at 80-110 MPH.
A luthier friend of mine once told me Titebond wood glue is far stronger than wood, plus it cleans off a finished surface with a damp cloth.
I have epoxy, but I think the wood glue will be fine if clamped correctly, hell, the pieces fit together pretty dang tight without a clamp.
Rubbing alcohol will take epoxy off before it sets completely. The trick is to get the right amount of epoxy into the break and hope the excess rises just to surface level. In cool weather, you should have plenty of time to work before it gets too gooey, but adding a little heat will temporarily thin the epoxy allowing it to soak into tighter areas. A slow cure 30-45 minute epoxy (find it at a radio control airplane hobby shop) will give the strongest bond, but needs 24 hours to be sure. I glue wing halves together with the stuff and it holds together with 8-12 G loads at 80-110 MPH.A luthier friend of mine once told me Titebond wood glue is far stronger than wood, plus it cleans off a finished surface with a damp cloth.
First, I am not arguing, I want to bring this up. I really think for this particular, and very unique situation, epoxy might be the better choice. Remember, this is a bass hoop and will take much more pressure, tension and torque than if it were say a bearing edge, and will be required to flex in many different directions all at the same time. I don't know, it just seems to me for this instance, and again this only my 2 cents, that epoxy might be a better solution. But then again, it is only my opinion, and you are the one there and can see more than I can. Anyway, whichever way you end up going, I hope it works well.
