I'd like to go on record regarding reshaping/re-cutting MIJ edges, not so much in response to the above bearing edge situation, as these edges have already been reshaped, but as a plea to anyone thinking about jumping in and reshaping/re-cutting their bearing edges. 2. If you are still unhappy with the drum's sound with a new head (after being played for a bit then retuned) try to give the edges a light sanding. 220 grit sand paper works well, and you dont need to dig into the edge, just a few times back and forth until the edge is smooth to the touch when you run your finger all the way around the edge. Put the (new) head back on then try tuning up again. If at this point you are still unhappy with the drum's sound, you may consider modifying the edge's shape slightly. Try Jonnistix's method. But please, dont go full bore into a sharp edge as this basically takes the 'vintage' design of the drum away and you start to get into a more modern edge design, which may not work well with the drum's construction. I know these drums do not have a lot of monetary value and are not, to most, regarded as 'collectors drums.' but when working on the MIJ sets of the 60's, please, at the very least, proceed with much caution and consideration for these vintage instruments.

The contour changes I make are, for the most part, very subtle, but they are changes nonetheless... I know this part sounds silly, or almost "horse whisperer", but I "listen" to the wood, and the edge will shape itself, all I do is drive the sandpaper... If a shell has true Ludwig or Sling rounded edges, I clean them up and put a very smooth 220 finish on them... if the grain is closed the head will vibrate much more freely, and anytime you have a smooth surface, you have less friction, and that allows the heads to move freely.