eamesuser!...

It's hard to see in your picture just what legs you have as they are either the #4256 Flare Tom Tom Legs... ( gently curved ) ... or the #4416 Straight Tom Tom Legs, regardless, the mounts themselves are the same for both. Should be a "U" type bracket with top/bottom attachment screws and a threaded Rogers logo wing screw to lock the leg in place. As to WHY would these be installed on a top of the line Holiday floor tom... well,

Almost always it was customer preference. Some guys didn't want the extra weight of the Knobby system and wanted the ease of just a single wing nut to lock in the legs, especially on a 14X14. The Flare legs were the most common, but I have seen a few Straight as well. It in no way de-values the drum/set at all. Interestingly, and you gotta love Rogers for this!... the top/bottom bolt pattern on the "U" bracket matches perfectly to the top/bottom bolt pattern of the #275 Knobby Tom Tom Legs... meaning ... should one want to change out and "upgrade" to the Knobby system, it's just a matter of two holes to mount the Knobby holders, and voila!... a Rogers 14x14 with Knobby's, and absolutely correct at that. Nice drums by the way!

Tommyp

Thanks for the reply,the mount is as you described,the legs are flared and I think original,the mount it itself works great,nice to know it could be converted though.Another question,the bearing edges look original the 12 tom edges look the 12 tom has a dip on the batter side,so does the kick,as far as I can tell the kit is all original,what would correcting do to the value of the kit percentage wise?

Not sure what you are asking. If it is re the floor tom legs, I would definately leave them alone. They will work just fine for you. You have a very desirable 14" FT and it is not worth the risk of drilling just to change the legs.

Sorry, I meant re doing the bearing edges on the batter side of my 12 inch tom and reso side of 20 kick,how much would that decrease the value per centage wise?

eamesuser!...

Re-cutting bearing edges on vintage drums always becomes a "sticky wicket" within the vintage drum community, and I do understand that too... to a degree. This is just my opinion, and as such are just MY thoughts on it, but that said:

I think what it comes down to is this: Do the drums in question tension/tune up well? Do they speak/sing?... or can you HEAR the fact that bearing edges have a slight "dip" in them? If the drums tune up nice and sound nice, I say leave them alone... but ... if there is obviously a problem because of the uneven bearing edges...well ... the drums were built by Rogers to be played!, and as such I see no problem with tweaking the edges to get them where they should be. Does that hurt the value? I guess that would depend on who was interested in them. Personally, the drums were meant to be played, not just collected or on display in a museum, and if you are in fact playing them, well they need to be "right". The extreme last word in my humble opinion is: If they sound nice as they are... leave them alone! If they sound a tad "off" due to those edges, and you are actively playing them, I see no reason to not have the edges PROFESSIONALLY re-cut to the 60's Rogers profile. The final decision/choice is completely yours of course! Regarding the tom legs/mounts on your 14X14:

With respect towards Powertone, I just want to say that in my initial answer to your query I wrote that those legs/mounts in no way devalue the drum/set at all... they are fine! However... should you want to upgrade to the Knobby mounts, there really is no risk what so ever... all it would take is two holes per mount which is what Rogers would have done anyway had the drum been in the standard Knobby set-up. It's almost as if Rogers knew this as both mounts feature the EXACT SAME SPACING, making it very simple business to switch to the Knobby mounts should one want.

Tommyp

Thanks for the reply,I agree the drums are to be played,they are not mint show pieces, but all orig as far as I can tell,the 12 tom does have a good size dip,it seems harder to dial in with single ply ambassadors esp in high and low tunings, pinstripes are more forgiving but when dialed in they are great,the 12 will be the first drum to de tune, and it is just a tweak with the key to get it back,the kick reso just makes it harder to dial in when changing heads,but the 14 is a killer,and I think the b.e.'s are keeping me from all the potential tone and response that they are capable of,and heck,I found them at a garage sale for 250.00 with some other stuff and flipped it for 200. so if I get the edges done,and have to sell later how much am I losing? I have already paid for them twenty times over from gigs, I heard Rob Kampa from Magstar is good,I have played a couple of his snares and they were terrific, and he comes to the Atlanta area to deliver his drums,maybe he would be someone to talk to?