My complements on your effort with this drum I think the worse shape they start in the more rewarding feeling you get when you make it right. BRAVO!

I was wondering were the layers of each color multiple layers, as to achieve a new finished color (each a new color). Are you thinking the black (possibly the original with a gray undercoat) would probably need a thick white undercoat to go to red? Sometimes to get deeper and more interesting colors (on cars anyway) various layers of clear colors and sparkles (silver or gold) are used to get what may end up being a deep black sparkle (white primer then silver then clear red then clear black). But maybe it’s more likely to be (1. grey primer then black, then 2. white primer for the new red and possibly silver for red metallic, then 3. black sparkle all by itself, then 4. green?). Just my two cents.

I’m looking forward to seeing your restoration.

I was thinking something along those same lines, that at least one or two of the six layers were primers for other colors sprayed over them. The dull brown/gray directly over the wood seems like a primer rather than a finish color, and the red also looks kind of flat and nondescript.

I still haven't scraped the stripper off the shell (I just slathered on another coat, because the coat I left on overnight had dried out), but I think I'll get a better idea of the history once I do. I the meantime, if I had to hazard a guess right now, I'd say someone who owned this drum probably took it into an auto body paint shop to have it re-done, resulting in a couple of the extra layers.

Scott

Checker – Just noticing your badge. I don’t see one like it on the DrumGuide WFL page. Two points of interest to me are: 1. it reads Drum Co. like the 40s and early 50s but 2. the “U” in the word drum falls under the space and “F” of WFL like the 55 to 59 badge. I’ve evaluated the earlier badges but the spaces around the WFL are wide and such. So, I’m thinking when you get that badge cleaned David should have a photo for his records.

"Dear Mr. Holmes, I believe you may have unearthed a new species!" Ha Ha Ha!

I don't have a photo yet, but it appears to me to have this badge:

[IMG]http://www.vintagedrumguide.com/images/badges/ludwig/wfl_keystone_37-54_large.jpg[/IMG]

...which according to the info on this site would date it to 1955 - 1959. As soon as I get it cleaned up I'll post a photo to verify.

Scott

Yup! My bad, I saw the "S" as a "C". Thank you!

"Doctor Watson, what are you telling me this new species crap for!" Ha ha ha!

I couldn't wait, so I wiped some of the stripper off and took the shot below. So it does appear to be a '55 - '59 drum, based on the badge.

BTW, I noticed something else that I hadn't seen until I looked at the photo - the red paint is also over the badge. It even looks like there might be a little white undernath the red, but I can't tell if that's paint or stripper.

Scott

WOW multiple cases of laziness.... whodathunk...................jeez.... !!!!

This drum is just full of surprises.

I'm going to have to do another round of stripper, but the initial scrape revealed the original finish, which had not been apparent in any of the early paint scrapings. It was originally blue and silver duco - see below.

It looks like the layer of paint that initially appeared black was actually dark blue. And the gray/brown beneath (which appears more reddish-clay colored in the photo) it is the original primer over the wood.

Scott

Checker758 - Is the stripper to mild? You've got me feeling bad that I mentioned 3M in another thread recently! Ouch! That is some ugly sh*t!

No wonder the pinball machine collecters use it to remove a layer or so at a time.DOH

On the other hand, it is great that you will be able to restore it to it’s original colors though, if you choose to.

With As Many Layers Of Paint That You Are Having To Remove You Need To Use A Gel Type Paint Remover, The 3m Is Not Strong Enough For This Many Layers Of Paint, But With A Gel Type Of Paint Remover It Needs To Be No Cooler Than 70 Degrees Outside, That Maybe What The Problems Is With The 3m Remover If It Is Below 70 Degrees They Will Not Work Very Well. Mark