O-Lugs!

You were not being singled out! There were many in different threads. I do apologize if you thought I meant you specifically ... 'twas not the case! With that said, I know what's happening here: The pic you want to put up is just too large of a file in itself. If you send me the pic file I will size it and send it back. Click on my username .. Tommyp .. and you will find my main email address. Send me the pic! Otherwise ... you are not wrong! You would think the site would automatically resize, but unfortunately, it doesn't. David and I have had more than a few discussions on this issue .. so .. we may be able to institute a different pic upload system within the new format we have now. We are looking into it! THANKS for your understanding. BEST!!!

Tommyp

No problem, Tommy. I'm just frustrated and embarrassed that I can't figure these things out, myself. It's easy when the site does it for me. LOL! Oh well...back to rubbing two sticks together to get my fireplace going....heh

Contact cement? What kind of wood worker glues a wood veneer to a wood shell with contact cement?

Was he using self-adhesive veneer? That would be an equally embarrassing move.

Contact cement is good for non porous materials and/or substrates. Wood on wood you can’t beat wood glue (well, marine epoxy beats it but too messy for a veneer).

Yep, taking money and not delivering. also, those "cool" wooden lugs breaking and again, no response or replacement from builder after claiming he would replace.

I'm not sure what he was using but the pictures I saw looked like contact cement to me. His drums also had wood hoops. Like I said, they looked very nice but there are a fair amount of posts online showing that the finish was very fragile and the hoops tended to break easily.

When I was a teenager, I actually used contact cement to attach maple veneer to a Ludwig 6 ply shell that had been wrapped and had an ugly outer ply. This was at the advice of someone at a drum shop. I sprayed with poly in a rattle can. It actually didn't look bad but the veneer wasn't completely flat, even after sanding. It matched some maple thermogloss toms I had just bought pretty well. Many years later I pulled it off and it was just like removing any wrap. It still had a good tight joint and had held up well but I would never do it again although it can work as a DIY effort. I would never do it for a drum that I was trying to sell.

I have never really gotten that whole, make it look like a piece of art thing. Sound should be the number one goal. There are plenty of commercially made drums that sound great so any deviation from the basic formula, just to make it look like art is just a wasted effort in my book.

I'm not sure what he was using but the pictures I saw looked like contact cement to me. His drums also had wood hoops. Like I said, they looked very nice but there are a fair amount of posts online showing that the finish was very fragile and the hoops tended to break easily.

When I was a teenager, I actually used contact cement to attach maple veneer to a Ludwig 6 ply shell that had been wrapped and had an ugly outer ply. This was at the advice of someone at a drum shop. I sprayed with poly in a rattle can. It actually didn't look bad but the veneer wasn't completely flat, even after sanding. It matched some maple thermogloss toms I had just bought pretty well. Many years later I pulled it off and it was just like removing any wrap. It still had a good tight joint and had held up well but I would never do it again although it can work as a DIY effort. I would never do it for a drum that I was trying to sell.

I have never really gotten that whole, make it look like a piece of art thing. Sound should be the number one goal. There are plenty of commercially made drums that sound great so any deviation from the basic formula, just to make it look like art is just a wasted effort in my book.

Maybe sound SHOULD be number one, but, when the trend became boutique snare drums, back in the day, it was inevitable that there would be artist/craftsman to take it to extremes. I would have never considered to take any Joyous Lake drum anywhere, but they were one of the aforementioned extremes of that trend. The drum I tapped on was like butter. I think it was made from Gabon ebony or blackwood or some such wood....shallow depth...I forget the price he had on it, but, whatever it was, I didn't have it. And, to be honest, I was less interested in art objects than I was in practical drums at the time. But, in retrospect, I wish I'd have bought it. Oh well...another one of those "The one that got away" stories....

I've got some decent snares but the one that gets used the most is the Acrolyte.

It's light, easily replaced if damaged, and sounds good even if the heads are shat and out of tune with themselves. Just works. Always.

I'd like to think the drums I build sound and look good....

I don't know that much about your drums, but I do know that some big names owned some of them. What I have seen look very nice. My point about certain boutique drums is that to many of them, looks came first and sound was very much secondary.

It's funny that A&F drums goes out of their way to make their drums look awful, and some examples posted online show some very questionable build quality, yet some people think they are the greatest thing since sliced bread. And they are super expensive. I guess the whole ratrod, patina looker in the car world rubbed off on the drum world so ugly is the new "work of art" to some.

Maybe they sound incredible. I don't know. I have never seen one in the flesh and would never spend that kind of money on a drum.