It shouldn't. The melting point is 360 degrees F. I fixed a p83 where the threaded ball had come off because the peened end had worked loose. The part was brass so I cleaned the brass and put it back into the strainer slide and peened it over with what was left. I then put a little flux on it and used my propane torch to build up solder on the end of the loose peen. It worked great and had no discoloring of the chrome.

Plumbing valves are chrome plated brass and I have soldered many of those and never had a problem.

With the brass clean and flux added, it shouldn't take that much to get the solder to flow and adhere to the exposed brass of the shell. Once cooled some careful file and sandpaper work and it should be as good as new.

If the shell is aluminum, that Alumaloy stuff would probably work. I have never used it, and their claims of it's strength are exaggerated, but to build up some missing metal long the bearing edge, it should work fine.

Janlaban, I would be very surprised if a mid-1960s Supra shell was Brass. Aluminum replaced brass on common Supras, due to the rising cost of brass.

Since you have a clear bottom head, here is a quick way to determine if your shell is brass or aluminum.

My first photo is of a 1961-1962 vintage brass Supra (Super Ludwig). Looking closely at the downward angle of the Top Head bearing edge, note that it folds back slightly - about 1/8 - 1/4" back toward the shell.

My second photo is a 1966-1967 vintage aluminum Supra. The downward flange ends "straight." There is no secondary bend-back toward the shell.

Even if your buggered Supra is aluminum, $100 is still a steal for a clean-looking (minimal acne) snare. And it probably sounds fine, despite the hammering. If it's a brass shell, you stole it! Ha!

See photos below. Regards, MB

My Supra seems to be aluminum, thank you for the pictures! And thanks for the encouraging words! The 100$ is worth just to have it on the shelf to look at.