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Rogers Collett Mounts

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Greetings,

I am relatively new to vintage Rogers drums. One thing I have noticed is that you REALLY need to get those collets tight in order for them to hold securely (spurs, tom arm etc). I can barely get them tight enough with my hand. Any tricks to tighten or loosen them more efficiently? I don't want to break them, but I feel the need to use something other than my hands to get them tight enough to hold anything, and then the same to get them loose. What about a pair of old drumsticks to use as a pair of "pliers"?

Anyone have any tricks for these?

Thanks,

V

Posted on 3 years ago
#1
Posts: 350 Threads: 33
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Are you dealing with the older Machined collets or the later (Fullerton) cast collets? The cast collets would eventually develop hairline cracks and fail. The cast models were sort of rounded at the top.

1974-75 Rogers Starlighter IV New England White 13/16/22 (w/Dyna)
1964-67 Rogers Blue Glass Glitter 12/14/16/20
early Oaklawn Camco Blue Moire 12/14/20
1926 Super Ludwig 5x14
1960-ish Ludwig COB 5x14 Super Sensitive
1960-ish Ludwig COB 6.5x14 Super Sensitive
1970 Ludwig COB Cut-Badge 5x14 Supra Phonic

Looking for a Camco Aristocrat SD in Blue Moire!!
Posted on 3 years ago
#2
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Here are some photos.

Photo 1-Collett attached to the Rack Tom

Photos 2 & 3-Bass Drum Spurs

Photo 4-Where the tom arm goes on the bass drum

They look flatter and not rounded at the top, so I am hoping these are the machined ones?

Thanks again for the help. I am very new to Rogers.

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Posted on 3 years ago
#3
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I can't claim to have anywhere near the Rogers knowledge many on here have, and this is might be more of a workaround than a solution to your problem, but I've often used these on my spurs, tom mounts, cymbal mounts and even floor tom legs. They absorb a lot of the weight so you don't need to rely as much on your collet noses and crank them down so hard. They also kind of serve as a DIY memory lock which can be useful for gigging when you're setting up and breaking down a lot. Best of all, they slide on and off easily with a few turns of an allen wrench. The size in the above link fits Rogers swivo hardware.

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Posted on 3 years ago
#4
Posts: 1459 Threads: 87
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These stops will indeed take the weight of the arms and you only need to tighten the collets enough to keep from rotating. Easier all the way around for tightening.

Depending on size, I have put square head or wing head screws instead of an allen wrench.

And the collet in the first picture is machined, while the last 3 look like cast with some cracking.

Posted on 3 years ago
#5
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Hi V!

The collet noses with PAT. PEND. are the machined ones and should NOT require excess torque to keep the hex Swivo arm tight. The other noses are the cast version and, as previously mentioned, develop cracks and require more tightening...which leads to more cracks and eventual failure of the nose!

I've never had an issue with having to use too much tightening force when using collets with the machined nose.

Attached is a picture of a collet plate with a cast nose I had on a tom some years ago. Look closely and you can see cracks beginning! Just a matter of time until the nose fails and will not longer tighten around the collet enough to hold the Swivo arm!

-Mark

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Posted on 3 years ago
#6
Posts: 350 Threads: 33
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Ditto on what Mark says!! I see one machined collet nose and three Cast noses in your pics. When I switched out my cracked and weakened cast models for the older Machined ones, my problems disappeared.

1974-75 Rogers Starlighter IV New England White 13/16/22 (w/Dyna)
1964-67 Rogers Blue Glass Glitter 12/14/16/20
early Oaklawn Camco Blue Moire 12/14/20
1926 Super Ludwig 5x14
1960-ish Ludwig COB 5x14 Super Sensitive
1960-ish Ludwig COB 6.5x14 Super Sensitive
1970 Ludwig COB Cut-Badge 5x14 Supra Phonic

Looking for a Camco Aristocrat SD in Blue Moire!!
Posted on 3 years ago
#7
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Thanks for the replies!

Just to clarify terminology, is the "nose" the T-handle that actually rotates and can come off, or is the "nose" the threaded "tube" that is directly attached to the plate bolted to the shell?

Posted on 3 years ago
#8
Posts: 1459 Threads: 87
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From vyacheslav

Thanks for the replies!Just to clarify terminology, is the "nose" the T-handle that actually rotates and can come off, or is the "nose" the threaded "tube" that is directly attached to the plate bolted to the shell?

Aye Mate. T handle spinner nose/collet be the correct clarification.

Quality after market nose/collets are also available if you cannot find Pat Pend pieces.

Posted on 3 years ago
#9
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Just to clarify the nose/collet issue a bit better... the "collet" are the threaded "fingers" welded to the plate that mounts to the shell. The "nose" threads onto the collet and as you turn the nose clockwise, it will compress the collet fingers around the Swivo hex shaft. It was a really elegant design...all thanks to Joe Thompson!

-Mark

Posted on 3 years ago
#10
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