I don't know the answer to all of your questions. I do detune them a little after each gig, but just a little. Some heads (like the Litek ones) will actually tighten themselves when the drums are in storage, and if you detune them too far, they'll shrink so much that you'll need to re-wet and reshape them all over again.

Similarly, for your wet/dry question, I think it depends on the brand. I think that Earthtone strives to make a head that can be put on dry and doesn't need any prep. But the Litek heads are really old school, and the instructions provided do involve wetting them and forming them to your particular shell. I'm not familiar with Kalfco or Kangaroo, but I hope to try one of these days.

I'm interested in reading the answers that you receive.

I haven't used calf heads for decades, but the way we handled it back than was to only loosen the heads a bit after tightening them for a gig when it was raining or very humid. You don't want to tune the heads very tight when it's very humid and forget to loosen them just a bit afterwards because when the humidity drops the head shrinks and can overstretch and possibly weaken or in extreme cases split. If you tighten the heads when the humidity is already low you don't really have to loosen them when finished playing.

As far as the snare side is concerned calf heads are thicker than snare side Ambassadors, and a result are not as sensitive. The same rules about loosening and tightening them apply as for batter heads. Remember that calf skin will loosen and tighten a bit depending on the humidity.

I've got a little Rogers 4 piece 20/12/14 jazz kit that I use Earthtone heads on the batter side of the SD and toms. I usually detune them a bit when they're not being played so they don't get too tight in storage in their cases. I like the Earthtones because they are premounted on regular aluminum hoops to save all those mounting hassles and they sound so warm and "cool" for jazz and brush work.

Drum Doug

I use new (Earthtone, Stern Tanning, and Kentville from Australia) and old (with wooden flesh hoops) on jazz drums set and concert snare drums for the symphony. I also use them on rope tensioned field drums (Potter and Heritage Drum Company) and other historic drums. I agree with the slight tensioning down when not in use. If you do need to wet a head when mounting do not use a lot of water, and wipe it off before mounting. I have not had the need to really wet a calf head but do dampen gut snares before putting them on a new drum. I always check the head tension when the seasons change and try not to store them near a floor heat register. I also use Bag Balm from a local feed and seed store to add lanolin back to older heads that have dried out a little. I have found that worked very well on congas and African drums. I love the sound and feel and think it is well worth the trouble. Besides some poor cow was really committed to your drum. Most of the early drum companies were located near stockyards for a good reason.

The tone of calfskins can be mimicked by new synthetics.....BUt you will never find any other type of heads that feel and play like calfskins. They are so spongy and buttery! No finger strain at all!

Rob to Your First Question Yes by un tuning you preserve the skins

2 ) Yes it can be But you do not need to Calfheads Project better than plastic heads and have a better dynamic to them.

3) All depends on how you get the skins. If you get Pre Mounted just put on drums no damping needed. As to purchase of skins Recommend Buy Calf Heads not Kangaroo or any animal of sort.Skins from other animals are Not tan in the same manner and will not produce a proper sound. Contact Jeff Stern of Stern Tanning he has one of the Best heads for drums. Humidity You can control and will not affect sound by using lights on kit or Heaters next to your kit. Also calf Heads after time that issue of the Humidity will dissipate as skin get older and are being used on constant bases.

There is a tonal subtlety that calf heads produce that is different from any plastic heads. In my experience the synthetic heads that come closest to the warmth of real calf skin are the Evans '56 CalfTones but even they don't quite make it. They are currently mounted on the batter side of the snare and toms of our '62 Super Classic set.

I use the Kentville Kangaroo heads on three very active snares. I also use one old radioking calf on a very infrequent snare and have calf on a few toms and a Bass drum that stay at home. I dont mess with the at home drums unless they are real tubby then i tighten them. The snares that travel get detuned after every gig. I detune them the same amount that i had to tension them to make them playable. Usually 1/2 to 1 whole lug turn. I dont tension as tight as remo but sometimes the dry air makes them tighten that much so i believe they can take it. The kangaroos dont need any preprep. Iwould imagine it has to do with whether there is a sufficient collar on the head before mounting.