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Paint stripping over a wrap

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Hi All,

I have this painted 24” Rogers Script badge BD that shows what I believe is a black strata wrap underneath.

The paint appears to have been sprayed on pretty thickly.

I did try a test area of graffiti remover, but it hardly had an effect

I searched here a bit, and noted a few suggestions. The mention of lead paint is a concern.

One was using 5f5 stripper, which I’ve never seen before ?

Taping inside holes, and edges was a good tip.

The job seems pretty daunting, but finding that wrap underneath is exciting. I hope it’s not cracked in places ?

Any suggestions would be welcome.

I’m not the most patient of people, so I may give up and sell it ?

Posted on 5 years ago
#1
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In Photo #2 I can clearly see brush strokes, but that may have been just to clean up missed spots or drips.

VDF User Black Label just did a spectacular job of removing paint from a pearl Ludwig wrap. I’m sure he can point you in the right direction.

Josh

Posted on 5 years ago
#2
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From jmcohen

In Photo #2 I can clearly see brush strokes, but that may have been just to clean up missed spots or drips.VDF User Black Label just did a spectacular job of removing paint from a pearl Ludwig wrap. I’m sure he can point you in the right direction.Josh

Thank you very much

I’ll reach out

Posted on 5 years ago
#3
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That's weird... they obviously painted the shell with the lugs in place, but since those lugs aren't painted black, someone must have taken the expense of replacing all the hardware.

As mentioned above, check out Black Label's post. You can't get a better example of stripping paint off a pearl wrap.

Mike.

-No Guru... still learning more every day-
Posted on 5 years ago
#4
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Well, I have good news and bad. The good news is it can be saved! The bad news: it will take you 20+ hours of meticulous sanding to do it right. Start with 200-300 grit until you see wrap, doing like an 8x8 area at a time. Move to 400-600 grit to remove the rest of the paint. Forgot to mention, wet sanding. Use an alcohol/water mix 10/90. Then move to 1000, 1600 and up to a 2000 grit. Once all the paint is gone and you sanded this all by hand, the swearing on the person who painted it sinks in. Get a headlight restoration kit from Walmart. Use it to finish off the sanding all around the shell.

Finally, if you have the intestinal fortitude to get this far, use Novus 2 to mechanically buff the wrap then 1 to hand shine. The results can be amazing! I did an early 50’s Gretsch kit that was spray painted gold over the blue sparkle. Took me over 50 hours to complete, below is a pic of the bass drum during the process. Tedious? Hell yes! Worth the effort? Absolutely! Give your fingers a rest often!

Good luck, take your time, and test a spot first!

Drum Kits
1965 Ludwig Clubdate Oyster Blue
1966 Ludwig Clubdate Oyster Black
1969 Ludwig BB Blue Oyster Keystone Clubdate
1971 Ludwig BB Black Oyster
Early 60's Camco Oaklawns Champagne Sparkle
Posted on 5 years ago
#5
Posts: 5295 Threads: 226
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From schmegeggie

Well, I have good news and bad. The good news is it can be saved! The bad news: it will take you 20+ hours of meticulous sanding to do it right. Start with 200-300 grit until you see wrap, doing like an 8x8 area at a time. Move to 400-600 grit to remove the rest of the paint. Forgot to mention, wet sanding. Use an alcohol/water mix 10/90. Then move to 1000, 1600 and up to a 2000 grit. Once all the paint is gone and you sanded this all by hand, the swearing on the person who painted it sinks in. Get a headlight restoration kit from Walmart. Use it to finish off the sanding all around the shell.Finally, if you have the intestinal fortitude to get this far, use Novus 2 to mechanically buff the wrap then 1 to hand shine. The results can be amazing! I did an early 50’s Gretsch kit that was spray painted gold over the blue sparkle. Took me over 50 hours to complete, below is a pic of the bass drum during the process. Tedious? Hell yes! Worth the effort? Absolutely! Give your fingers a rest often!Good luck, take your time, and test a spot first!

Super fine work!!

Cheers

1976 Ludwig Mach 4 Thermogloss 26-18-14-14sn
1978 Ludwig Stainless 22-22-18-16-14-13-12 c/w 6-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-22-24 concert toms
1975 Sonor Phonic Centennials Metallic Pewter 22-16-13-12-14sn (D506)
1971 Ludwig Classic Bowling Ball OBP 22-16-14-13
1960's Stewart Peacock Pearl 20-16-12-14sn
1980`s Ludwig Coliseum Piano Black 8x14 snare
1973 Rogers Superten 5x14 & 6.5x14 COS snares
1970`s John Grey Capri Aquamarine Sparkle 5x14 snare
1941 Ludwig & Ludwig Super 8x14 snare
Posted on 5 years ago
#6
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From schmegeggie

Well, I have good news and bad. The good news is it can be saved! The bad news: it will take you 20+ hours of meticulous sanding to do it right. Start with 200-300 grit until you see wrap, doing like an 8x8 area at a time. Move to 400-600 grit to remove the rest of the paint. Forgot to mention, wet sanding. Use an alcohol/water mix 10/90. Then move to 1000, 1600 and up to a 2000 grit. Once all the paint is gone and you sanded this all by hand, the swearing on the person who painted it sinks in. Get a headlight restoration kit from Walmart. Use it to finish off the sanding all around the shell.Finally, if you have the intestinal fortitude to get this far, use Novus 2 to mechanically buff the wrap then 1 to hand shine. The results can be amazing! I did an early 50’s Gretsch kit that was spray painted gold over the blue sparkle. Took me over 50 hours to complete, below is a pic of the bass drum during the process. Tedious? Hell yes! Worth the effort? Absolutely! Give your fingers a rest often!Good luck, take your time, and test a spot first!

I’m very frightened now. Yikes.

So I guess you are advising against paint stripper, or thinner.

I was planning on starting that approach in a few days.

What about all the paint dust.

I realize that a mask would be necessary.

I’m not sure my hands would hold up to that much sanding.

considering my arthritis. It’s a big drum.

I guess I could give it a go, and a backup plan would be to have Precision re wrap it.

I’m not interested in making money off of it to any great extent Thank you very much for your detailed technique

Posted on 5 years ago
#7
Posts: 6170 Threads: 255
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They can be a LOT of work. But also very rewarding. I posted this a while back. But here is my mid 60's Ludwig WMP 14x14 floor tom that I stripped recently. It did require some major patience.....and a break from it! So glad that I stuck with it though.

Mike

Posted on 5 years ago
#8
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Hi there - I can honesty vouch for lacquer thinners - i used it to clean up the paint over the wrap and all the hardware on my project and it worked just fine without any damage to the wrap.

Before, during and After:

Drums: Ludwig / Star / Tama / Yamaha
Snares: Arai /Mapex / Ludwig / Slingerland / Star / Tama
Cymbals: Meinl / Paiste / Tosco / Wuhan /Zildjian / Zyn
Posted on 5 years ago
#9
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I got 2 coats of paint off shells using lacquer thinner, but that was on lacquer finish, not a wrap. You can try denatured alcohol first if you want to try something milder.

I bought a plastic tub made for mixing cement at Lowes. BEWARE - lacquer thinner will eat through plastic except for #5 plastic. (the hard plastic 5 gal buckets are made from)

Poured an inch or two of thinner in the bottom, dipped the shell in for 20-30 sec and then scraped the soft paint off with a plastic scraper.

DO THIS OUTDOORS!

Posted on 5 years ago
#10
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