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A rookie question about tuning my Ludwig’s.

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From KSchuessler

Thanks guys, all help is appreciated. It sounds like I need to tune the top heads to my liking, then add the bottom heads and try to find the right tone that will compliment that sound. Sound about right?I like the tip about seating the heads before the final adjustment, I never thought to do that, but it makes sense. I still have a couple of shells to clean up, and I will let you know how it works out once I have the whole set tuned. Kurt

if I understand you correctly you're going to tune the top head before putting the bottom heads on? Is that correct? You really don't want to do that. if you tune the top head to your liking and then put on the bottom head you will most likely no longer like the tuning for the top head. It is an integrated process. Each head will affect the sound of the other. Generally start out with both heads already on the shell and finger tighten evenly both heads. Many people tune the bottom head first making it a bit tighter and about a third higher-pitched then the top head. Then you tune the top head for the sound and responsiveness you want. You will likely need to go back and forth between the top and the bottom head to lock in the sound you want. Ensure even tension around the head. It's not an absolute science and can be frustrating sometimes to get the exact sound you want.

Mark
BosLover
Posted on 6 years ago
#11
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Thanks Mark, that sounds like a good plan. I can imagine I will need to be patient and plan on many adjustments before I get the sound I want.

This set has the knob style mufflers, so I am thinking I need to back the muffler off until I get the tone I want, then adjust the muffler to get the sustain I want. Then probably a little more fine tuning to accommodate the muffler. Is this the way it is normally done?

Thanks for your help!

Kurt

Posted on 6 years ago
#12
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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Getting back to this and although I tune one headat a time, I have both heads on the drum. Just like a rim mount vs a shell mount, the drum behaves differently with the mass of a rim and a head on the drum.

Here is my “prog rock” Tuning. I use this on my blue kit in my signature (which is a completely different animal to vintage Ludwig but maybe you get something out of it)

Top head is clear pinstripe; bottom head is clear ambassador.

I use the “Weckl method” which gives a cool pitch bend depending on impact force.

Top head on, finger right all screws, press in center and tighten just enough to get rid of wrinkles. Then tune the head to itself- find highest pitch lug and bring the others up to it. Seat the head and repeat. Done.

Flip the drum over and start the same way, but it will be lower pitch due to thinner head. Bring the pitch of the bottom head up to match the top head. Tuning on a carpet makes it easier to dampen the head you are not playing.

This gives great sustain and generally the lowest pitch a Tom can do with the chosen head. And, when you play hard, you get a slight pitch bend down after the initial attack. It adds another dimension beyond pitch and volume that I like.

Jazz Tuning (black kit below) I run coated ambassador top and bottom. I start out with the same Tuning method but then increas the top head tension for better rebound. So my top head ends up higher pitch than the bottom. I don’t tune them apart any specific interval.

On snares, I always start with the resonant head tuned to A-440, set the snares as loose as I can without buzz, throw it on the stand and then play with the top head. Again starting loose/sloppy and then bringing tension up until I like the feel and sound.

I don’t have internal mufflers in my toms and usually off or barely touching the top head in a snare. I use moon gel as needed (with the black drums); blue drums usually a fine wide open with the “Weckl” Tuning.

Tuning drums is very personal I think and what I like you may hate, but if both heads are at the same pitch, the resonance will be long. Ring the shell into the game (per my other post) and you will get all there is to get from the drum. It can be too much, particularly on modern sharp edge drums.

Let us know how you do!

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 6 years ago
#13
Posts: 111 Threads: 17
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if I'm not mistaken for that big band rock sound that looks for, many recommend as reso the smooth white (diplomat I think)

Posted on 6 years ago
#14
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As I try to absorb as much of this great information as possible, I realize that I probably should have mentioned that I am going to use the exsisting heads that came with the drums.

They are medium coated Ludwig Weathermasters that although a little dirty and have some blue stick marks, are in pretty good shape. Most of the coating is still intact, and there are no dents or other obvious damage.

I really appreciate all of the info you experts are sharing, and I feel like I know a lot more now than I did when I asked for help.

Kurt

Posted on 6 years ago
#15
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From KSchuessler

Thanks Mark, that sounds like a good plan. I can imagine I will need to be patient and plan on many adjustments before I get the sound I want. This set has the knob style mufflers, so I am thinking I need to back the muffler off until I get the tone I want, then adjust the muffler to get the sustain I want. Then probably a little more fine tuning to accommodate the muffler. Is this the way it is normally done?Thanks for your help!Kurt

You definitely do not want the mufflers touching the heads while you tune them.

Mark
BosLover
Posted on 6 years ago
#16
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One more suggestion, as you are tightening the heads gradually, put the drum on a (carpeted) floor, and press down in the center of the head with the heel of your hand occasionally, which helps to seat the head more evenly as you go. You’ll notice the pitch drop a bit when you do this, just continue tightening until you get the pitch you want. I’ve seen guitar players do this kind of thing when changing strings.

Good luck!

Ken

Posted on 6 years ago
#17
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Scrub those old heads with a damp sponge & BKF & they'll look new again.....marko

Posted on 6 years ago
#18
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Thanks Marko, I will give it a try.

Can I use the BKF on my Supra shell to clean up the grime? It is chrome over aluminum.

Kurt

Posted on 6 years ago
#19
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I wouldn't sue anything with abrasives in it. Warm soapy water & a no-abrasive sponge first. If that doesn't do it, some guys use aluminum foil, crumpled up in a ball & wet with Coke...........marko

Posted on 6 years ago
#20
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