Tom clearly was wet long enough to soften plies along partial area of bearing edge. The tom might be shot. BUT : am curious if using Ronseal WET ROT WOOD HARDENER to correct is a good move or bad.
My idea is to apply it and then the 2nd step would be using epoxy to glue plies back together.
I am worried that the Ronseal will harden it out of shape + will also not allow the 2nd epoxy step to be performed.
Chris
Reverse the order and you're good to go.
Glue and clamp FIRST. Clean up any glue residue after it dries.
Then the Ronseal, or Tung Oil. Tung oil soaks into the grain and hardens. Go over the entire edge with 00-00 steel wool followed by Bee's wax. The bearing edge will be as good as new. Better - if you do it right.
John
Reverse the order and you're good to go.Glue and clamp FIRST. Clean up any glue residue after it dries.Then the Ronseal, or Tung Oil. Tung oil soaks into the grain and hardens. Go over the entire edge with 00-00 steel wool followed by Bee's wax. The bearing edge will be as good as new. Better - if you do it right.John
Thank you John!
Hobbs - L-o-n-g strokes around the bearing edge when you're using the steel wool. Don't be afraid to apply pressure, pinch the steel wool and bearing edge between your fingers, but keep the sanding strokes as long as you can. -No short, back and forth, sawing motion strokes.- You won't believe how smooth (like glass) the bearing edges get just from the steel wool sanding. Finish off by rubbing in a dab of some old fashioned bee's wax with your finger tip. Buff in the wax with a clean cotton rag (an old tee-shirt scrap). Heads will float on those edges, they'll tune right up with no snags, no problems.
After you do this once you'll want to do all your drums! I make it a part of my routine -every time- I detail a drum. Doing the edges this way helps you to get the very best out of each drum.
John
